Deck Sealants are Worth the Trouble

If you are wondering why you can’t use just any finish on your deck, think about the abuse decking must handle, in­cluding pounding rain, snow, and ice, abrasion from traffic and furniture, and often many hours of direct sun, day after day. To make matters worse, the joints between the many parts of a deck retain moisture long after the rain stops, making the wood vulnerable to rot, mildew, and wood-munching insects. To combat this barrage, deck-fin­ish manufacturers offer a variety of formulations that in­clude sealers, preservatives, UV-light inhibitors, pigments, and resins. Some are oil based and penetrating. Some are acrylic and film forming. Others are a mix. Here is a list of the most popular finishing options for a new deck:

Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.

Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.

Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.

Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitrans­parent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formu­las are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.

Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and mois­ture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will even­tually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip re­sistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.

Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in com­bination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.

Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.

Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.

Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish (page 184). A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.

Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.

Deck Building Basics

The first consideration in deck building design is always how you plan to use it. If all you want is a place for sunbathing and small family gatherings, a small deck may suit your needs. However, if you plan to entertain large groups of people, you’ll need a deck the size of a large room.

Cost is always a consideration in deck building. One option is to build a deck in modules, adding on as you can afford to do so. You can save a lot of money if you build it yourself.  It is almost always better to hire a professional contractor if you can afford it.

The least expensive deck is a single platform at ground level with simple safety railings. As you make the deck more complicated — adding more than one level or elevating the deck to a second-story entrance, for example — the cost will increase.

The type of material you use to build the deck is an important factor in its cost. The cheapest material used is pressure-treated pine. (Don’t be fooled into using cheap untreated pine for a low or ground-level deck –in less than five years you’ll have to replace the rotted deck.) Cedar, redwood and cypress are also used, but they cost more than pressure-treated pine.

Foundations are Key in Deck Building
A good deck begins with a good foundation. Posts must be anchored in the ground by burying them in concrete or attaching them to concrete piers. In some localities, pier blocks are accepted, but in many areas the posts or piers must extend several feet into the ground or at least 6 in. below the frost line.

Equally important is the fungal and insect resistance of the foundation. Decks that sit low to the ground and are surrounded by plants tend to be damp, and untreated posts, beams and joists are subject to rot. Even decks that are built on pier blocks are not safe from insects. Termites can travel through tiny cracks in the pier blocks and into the structure of the deck.  Deck infestation can lead to an infestation in the home.

No matter what wood you choose for the decking,  all posts, beams and joists should be made of pressure-treated wood.  Ensure that it is rated for in-ground use and is stamped by an approved inspection agency or tagged with the manufacturer’s warranty. You can use cedar, redwood or stained pressure-treated pine for the decking and other above-ground parts.

Always submit your deck plan to your municipal planning or codes office for approval. Most cities require a building permit, and some deck-building codes are very strict.

The Deck Structure
Posts support the joists and beams throughout most of the deck area, but the ends of the joists near the house are typically attached to a ledger with joist hangers. Ledgers are attached to the foundation or rim joist of the house. If the deck is at the same level as the house siding the siding and ledger (if used) must be flashed, and clearance must be maintained between the siding the header joist and the decking for water drainage. See your local municipal engineer for approved methods.

When adding a deck to a home with a stone foundation where it’s not possible or desirable to attach a ledger to the house rim joist, you can place posts near the foundation to support the deck. Leave a 1-in.-wide space between the ends of the deck boards and the side of the house for water drainage.

Beams are attached to the sides of the posts with carriage bolts or lag screws. Joists may be placed on top of the beams or between them. If they’re placed on top, toenail the joists to the beams and fasten them to the ledger and timber joists with joist hangers or other framing fasteners. Use joist hangers to attach joists between the beams. When the joist length exceeds 8 ft., install blocking at 4-ft. intervals.

The distance between the beams (joist span) determines the load rating for decks. Spans vary for different species of wood and depend on the size and spacing of the joists, Most codes limit the maximum spacing of joists to 24 in, when they’re supporting 2x or radius-edge decking (see table, right). To keep radius-edge decking from feeling springy and when running deck boards at an angle, use 16-in. joist spacing. At one time, decks were required to support a 60-pound-per-square-foot live load and a 10-psf dead load. Today most municipalities have lowered the requirement to a 40-psf live load, which is the same as the requirement for private dwellings.

Deck Building Choices
The most commonly used lumber for decking is 2×4, 2×6 and 5/4×6 (radius-edge) boards. You can lay deck boards in patterns to create interest, or you can alternate 2×4 and 2×6 boards. On multilevel decks, making pattern changes at each level alerts people to the change of levels.

Be selective in choosing decking — the better it is, the longer it will last. Cracks and knots absorb water, and freeze-and-thaw cycles can quickly destroy a low-grade board.

When laying deck boards, proper orientation of the bark side is necessary to minimize cupping. If a board has a vertical grain, cupping is not a factor. But if it has a horizontal gain, you need to orient it so it will cup down rather than up. If the boards are dry, install them with the bark side up. When the boards get wet, the bark side of the board will expand more than the pith side, and the boards will cup toward the pith side. If the boards are wet, as many pressure-treated boards are, they should be installed with the bark side down. When these boards dry, they wi11 cup toward the bark side.

Moisture content also determines how much space you should have between the boards. If the boards are dry (with a moisture content of 19 percent or less), they should be installed with 1/8- to 1/4-in. spacing for water drainage. If the boards are wet, butt them together. They’ll shrink and form spaces as they dry.

Deck boards can be installed with nails or screws. As the boards shrink and swell with changes in moisture content, smooth-shank nails invariably pop out of the boards, so ring-shank nails are a better choice. However, screws are the best fasteners. They won’t pop, and they’re easier to remove if a board needs to be replaced. Use plated or stainless steel deck screws to prevent rust stains.

To avoid splitting the ends of the boards when driving fasteners, drill 1/8-in. clearance holes. When using dry pressure-treated pine, it’s a good idea to drill clearance holes at the intervening nail/screw locations as well.

Steps and Stairs
Deck stairs can be more expansive and have gentler rises and broader treads than indoor stairways. Codes usually require that stairs be at least 36 in. wide. You can buy precut stringers, which makes stair building easy. If you’re making your own stringers, use 2x10s or 2x12s.

The standard stairway has a 7-in. rise and an 11-in. tread. To lay out a standard stairway, determine the total rise from the ground to the top of the decking. Divide the total rise by 7 to determine the number of risers (round to the nearest whole number). Then divide the total rise by the number of risers to determine the exact unit rise. To figure the total run, multiply the trait run (11 in.) by the number of treads (one less than the number of risers).

To lay out the treads on the stringer, mark the rise on the tongue of your flaming square and mark the run on the blade. Beginning at the bottom of the stringer, position the square so the marks are flush with the edge of the stringer and mark the rise and run with a pencil.

Stairs with more than three risers require handrails at a height of 30 to 38 in. above the nosing (overhang) of the treads.

Deck Railings
Decks that are more than 30 in. above the ground at the edge of the deck require a 36-in.-tall guardrail. The guardrail can be incorporated into a bench or seat. Generally, codes require that ornamental closures be designed so that a 6-in.-dia. or larger object cannot pass through. The horizontal spacing between vertical members (balusters) should be 3-1/2 in. or less. Attach railings with screws rather than nails.

Finishing the Deck
Unpainted wood that is left outside will weather to a gray hue. This indicates degradation of the wood caused primarily by exposure to ultraviolet light. Decks should be protected with a stain or clear finish that contains a UV inhibitor and mildewcide. For the best protection, apply water-base finishes annually; reapply oil-base finishes every two years.

How to Clean an Outdoor Wooden Deck

Springtime is the logical time to clean outdoor decks, patios and porches and take care of other repairs at least once or twice a year.  It is before winter damage can worsen and before outdoor entertaining begins in earnest.

Ordinary washing can brighten most decks. To clean an outdoor deck, use a stiff-bristle brush dipped in a solution of warm water and strong detergent or trisodium phosphate, the high-phosphate powder that can be used where it is legal.

Mix the solution according to the directions for heavy-duty cleaning or use a half-cup of detergent for each gallon of water. To avoid irritation, wear rubber gloves and goggles.

Wash the deck early in the morning or on a cloudy day, or else in stages, so that the solution does not dry on the wood. After scrubbing, rinse the deck by mopping it with clear water or by spraying it with a hose.

Use a putty knife or old handsaw to clear debris from the spaces between deck boards. The spaces allow water to drain quickly from the deck and provide thorough air circulation, which retards decay and molds.

Using Pressure Washers for Cleaning an Outdoor Deck
To clean a large deck or one with hard-to-clean features like benches and planters, consider renting a power washer. Request a washer having a pressure rating of 1,000 to 1,500 pounds per square inch. Use a nozzle with a relatively wide arc for general cleaning — 40 degrees is a standard size — and a narrower one, usually 15 degrees, for between deck boards.

Aim carefully when using the narrower nozzle and avoid using a nozzle narrower than 15 degrees. The spray can damage the wood. All pressure washers can break windows and damage plants with direct spray.

When using a pressure washer, wear safety goggles. Spray in line with the grain, holding the nozzle at a slight angle about six inches above the surface. Work slowly at a uniform rate and overlap parallel strokes.

An extremely dirty deck may require washing with an unrestricted cleaner. Most cleaners are caustic compounds that work by eating away the surface of wood to expose fresh cells.

Application is by spraying, rolling or brushing. Be careful to follow the directions and precautions. Wear protective clothing and cover plants and grass with plastic sheeting.

Deck cleaners may darken some wood. To restore the original color, dampen the wood thoroughly and mop it with a 5 percent solution of oxalic acid. Leave the solution on the wood, renewing it if it dries, until the wood lightens. Afterward, rinse the solution with plain water.

Oxalic acid applied two or three times will also remove rust stains from nails. To remove leaf stains, treat the area with a 50-50 solution of household bleach and water.

Full-strength bleach may be needed to remove some stains, but that may lighten the wood considerably. Full-strength bleach will also remove algae, moss and mildew not eliminated by deck cleaner.

To remove citronella-candle wax, place a rag soaked in mineral spirits over the stain until the wax is dissolved and absorbed. Resaturate the rag as necessary.

To remove barbecue spills and other grease stains, try water-rinsable automotive degreaser or parts cleaner. Apply the product, wait for it to penetrate, and then scrub and rinse.

After Cleaning Outdoor Decks, They Need Protection

Most new decks and decks treated with trisodium phosphate or deck cleaner need coating with a finish for protection and appearance. For protection against moisture, use a clear water repellent. It should be applied as soon as possible after the wood is dry, which may take two days or longer.

Repellents wood against cracking, splintering and warping caused by moisture. But unless the product contains other ingredients, it may not prevent wood from gradually turning gray, a process caused chiefly by sunlight.

Even decay-resistant woods like redwood and cedar and lumber that has been pressure treated with chemical preservatives are vulnerable to moisture damage. Manufacturers and contractors advise waiting at least a month before applying repellent to new pressure-treated lumber.

A better strategy, especially in damp areas, is to apply repellent immediately, allowing the wood to accept as much as it can. Wait a month or two before applying additional repellent or another finish. If the deck becomes dirty by the end of the waiting period, clean the outdoor deck with a cleaner before applying repellent.

Repellent containing an ultraviolet inhibitor will retard graying. To increase graying — that is, to give new decking an older appearance or to darken a bleached area — mop the deck with a mixture of one cup of baking soda to one gallon of water after washing the deck, but before applying repellent. To ward off mold, mildew and other decay, apply repellent containing preservative. That is not needed on pressure-treated lumber.

Stain should be applied just at intervals of at least three years, or the surface may turn muddy.

Stone Masonry

Stone masonry is the world’s oldest building art. The art of stone masonry can be traced back to the Neolithic age, when humans began domesticating animals and molding bricks out of plaster, mud and straw to build homes. Before humans developed tools to cut lumber, they had the ability to shape and piece together stones for the sake of building shelters and sites for religious activities. In antiquity, stone masonry was the preferred architectural form for preserving the culture of nearly every civilization. The Egyptian pyramids, Greek temples, Persian palaces, Roman wonders, and Medieval castles were all built from stone. Stone work makes a strong aesthetic impression and the incredible strength and versatility of stone makes it a favored building material for anyone who can afford it.

Common uses for stone work
In modern homes stone can be used almost anywhere, from kitchen flooring to outdoor siding. Stone masons also build custom fireplaces, walkways and patios. Some stone masons are commissioned for more artistically inclined projects like fountains, ponds, and other landscaping creations. Stone retaining walls are a common feature of many residential landscapes, because they are so effective in bulwarking the landscape against rain and flooding. In fact, there are very few parts of a home that can not be built out of stone. No matter how stone is used in or out of the home, it is sure to add a classic and distinctive beauty to any room, yard, or garden. Some homeowners choose to add stone facades to surfaces, giving the classic touch of stone masonry without the overhaul and expense.

Popular types of stone
Perhaps the most common modern household uses of stone masonry these days are stone floors and countertops. Limestone is the oldest stone application, traditionally used for walls and flooring. Limestone is best suited to a rustic environment. It is one of the softer stones, susceptible to wear and tear if not properly cared for. By the same token, over the years limestone can acquire a warm, inviting texture
as it becomes worn in. Slate is an extremely durable stone that is
best as flooring for high traffic areas. Quartz is a popular choice for countertops because it is intrinsically stain and scratch resistant. Quartz is also a very hard material. In fact, quartz is the world’s fourth hardest mineral, behind topaz, corundum, and diamond. Additionally, quartz comes in many colors with adds to its allure for use in building. Soapstone and granite are two more common stone work favorites for household applications. Soapstone usually comes in classic dark tones and is great for outdoor use, especially for acidic or alkaline environments. Granite is a weighty stone that is extremely hearty and, with proper care, resists scratching and stains better than almost any other material. Marble is the most widely recognized stone building material, loved for its unique beauty and elegance.

Caring for and maintaining stone work
Interior stone, particularly countertops and floors, maintains their integrity longest if periodically polished and resealed. A yearly polish and resealing will keep stone work stain and water resistant for lifetimes, not to mention keeping the stone looking pristine and unblemished. Different kinds of stone demand different levels of minor maintenance. Many homeowners may already have stonework on their property, but need simple repairs like brick replacement, stain removal or resealing. Cleaning very old stained stone can be an arduous task. Stone masons employ several different cleaning techniques, including high pressure water, corrosive chemicals, grinding and sandblasting. Ask your local stone mason about the care and maintenance specifics for the different stone materials they offer. Some things you will find you can do yourself, while others will require the hand of a knowledgeable stone mason.

Masonry is a specialty building service, typically more expensive than others. This is because stone is much more difficult to work with than materials like lumber or drywall. Also, whether decorative or structural, stone masonry requires a high degree of skill and training. When searching for a stone worker, be sure the mason is licensed, insured and has sufficient experience. For several reasons, it is better to find a stone mason who has done a lot of local work.
Stone is a cumbersome commodity that is available virtually everywhere. Consequently, it is impractical and expensive to ship stone very far. But each region’s stone has its own distinct qualities. A stone mason with local experience will have knowledge of the local geology and be able to better integrate it into your home.

How About New Siding?

Siding is a welcome innovation in home construction that has earned its place as one of the most common and important building techniques. Siding on a home is like skin on the human body. Siding prevents moisture from penetrating the home. Siding also defends the house against weather and pests, including biological contaminants like mold and mildew. Much like roofing, most homeowners do not think much about siding, because it plays a very passive, yet vital role in the health of a home.

The recent powerful storming and flooding in Nashville and Middle Tennessee has caused a lot of siding damage across the state. Many Tennesseans now need new siding, but have never had to research it or shop for it before. That is why we’ve prepared a siding primer. Siding should only be chosen after considering basic factors like cost, durability, maintenance and environmental impact. This homeowner’s guide to siding is written to give some essential facts about siding, the ever-important building material that has been keeping homes attractive and weatherproof for decades out of mind. We’ll cover some of the basic qualities of siding, the most common siding materials, and some considerations to make when choosing siding.

Siding comes in a variety of materials. The most common siding material is vinyl. Vinyl siding is definitely the mainstay of the home exteriors market. Vinyl siding is a surefire way to revitalize, beautify and extend the life of any home. Though vinyl is the most recognized material for making siding, it is also produced with aluminum, cedar, brick, fiber-cement and stone. Vinyl siding is most popular because it portrays the appearance of quality wood with minimal maintenance. Vinyl does not split, rot, or peel, like painted wood siding eventually does. Vinyl siding also comes in a wide variety of weatherproof colors and textures, ensuring an attractive home exterior for years to come.

Siding, no matter the material, can be coupled with excellent exterior insulation paneling that will filter out noise and lower energy bills. Siding’s design makes it the perfect cover for additional exterior insulation in a home. With the rising cost of energy, every bit helps, and the insulation potential that siding adds to a home creates an opportunity to make any house more energy efficient than ever. Siding is unquestionably a great choice to beautify and extend the life of a home. Vinyl siding in particular is a popular and effective siding material that enjoys some of the industry’s top ratings for energy efficiency. Different vinyl sidings are composed of different proprietary ingredients. For example, some sidings are more resistant to humidity and wind, while others can handle cold temperatures better. A siding choice which may be perfect for an old home in Minnesota, may not be the right material for a storm renovation in Tennessee.

Incidentally, a home does not need to be finished in all the same style or material of siding. Many homeowners differentiate the siding materials on a home, using, for example fiber-cement siding for the most weathered parts of the home, and cedar or stone siding for accents along the windows or near the roof. Siding is so protective and aesthetically versatile that nearly any combination of materials can be artfully executed. Fiber-cement siding is a valuable and durable siding with performance attributes suited to the unique, humid climate of the Nashville area.

New siding puts a fresh face on a home, beautifying the exterior while simultaneously improving the protection of the interior. Siding increases the value of homes because of the impressive visual crispness that new siding lends to an old building. Siding today is available in so many colors and textures, that the opportunity for aesthetic expression alone is cause enough to do some research into giving your house a siding face lift.

When looking for a siding contractor, search for local professionals with references and experience. Make sure your siding contractor uses siding materials manufactured for the local climate to which your home is subject. Find a contractor that offers a free in-home consultation. This allows you as a homeowner to learn about the scale of a siding project and to ask questions of a qualified contractor. You should always go into a job like this with peace of mind. Also, look for a contractor that warranties their products and work. Because new or replacement siding can be a real investment, it is wise to employ someone who backs their work with a guarantee, just in case of unforeseeable setbacks like shoddy installation or factory defects.

Is It Time For A New Roof?

A new roof is every homeowners most dreaded home improvement task. Lots of homeowners want to renovate their kitchens or bathrooms, but no homeowner wants to install a new roof. If the roof over your head lasts as long as you own the home, all the better. But that is not always the case. Every 20 or 30 years, sometimes sooner, homes need their roofing either replaced or reinforced.

A homeowner that suspects it is time to install a new roof needs to be sure. In this homeowner’s guide to residential roofing, you will learn some of the basic symptoms of a roof in need of replacement. Followed by that will be a brief outline of the work necessary to properly install a new roof, including the extensive preparations. Also covered are some of the roofing features available like a drip edge and an ice shield. Let’s get to it.

How do you know if it’s time for a new roof?
If your roof is leaking it will be obvious. Stains on the ceiling inside are a tell tale sign. Sometimes, though, a leak in the roof can be repaired locally without the entire roof being replaced. For the big picture, look for a combination of factors including the following:

*Algae growth – Airborne algae produce a dark discoloration on the roof that resembles soot or dirt.

*Curling, blistering, or missing shingles – These can be caused by moisture, poor workmanship, or high winds.

*Damaged flashing – This is caused by drying or cracking on an old roof, improper nailing, or settling of the home over time.

*Buckling – Buckling can happen when the house settles, if new shingles are applied over old ones, or because of poor workmanship. Poor workmanship includes improperly applied felt, wrinkeld underlayment, or lack of spacers between the roof deck and boards.

*Missing granules – Granules naturally wear off of shingles, but if there are so many loose granules that they are filling up your gutters or if the mat underneath is exposed, then your shingles have officially gotten too old.

*Signs of rot – This is more common in organic base shingles. Consider replacing with fiberglass shingles to avoid rot.

What does it take to install a new roof?
A good roofing crew will have a system in place when you order your new roof, including preparation. Without undergoing significant preparation, a homeowner risks the integrity of their new roof. If a roof is poorly prepared, it will quickly develop crack, holes, and eventually leaks.

Typically, the team will take up most of your yard, laying out the new roofing materials. Also they usually pull a dump truck up to the side of the house to throw in all of the old roof detritus that will be torn off and trashed. If you cringe at the thought of a heavy dump truck crushing your lawn, ask your roofer about a new technology called Mr. Buggy, which is a great dump truck alternative. The team will remove all the old shingles and pull out the old nails. At this stage it is time to replace or secure the roof boards. Each roof board should be inspected individually to ensure the future integrity of the new roof.

All debris must be removed from the roof at this point, because demolition will be over. It will be time to begin the actual installation portion of the roofing project. Next the team must install an aluminum drip edge along the eaves of the roof using galvanized nails to prevent rust. After the drip edge, it is wise but not necessary to install an adhesive ice and water sheild. This can be expensive but it is well worth it in wet or cold climates. Some states’ building codes require the ice and water shield, so do your homework.

Then the team will entirely cover the roof area with felt or roofing paper in overlapping rows from the bottom up, fastening it down with roofing tacks. Finally the new shingles are attached, from the bottom corner of the roof up to the very top. Any hips and valleys are overlapped, using a herringbone technique.

It’s over now. Congratulations!

Roofing is arduous work, requiring lots of manpower, that is best handled by professionals. Roofing requires a significant amount of demolition and preparation before the familiar shingles or shake are fastened down. It sounds simple here, but it takes days, and it is a very dirty and labor intensive job. The good news is that when the roof is done, it looks so ordered, fresh and beautiful that the whole house seems to smile to be wearing a new top. And as a homeowner, you are allowed decades of cozy security under a healthy new roof.