If you are wondering why you can’t use just any finish on your deck, think about the abuse decking must handle, in­cluding pounding rain, snow, and ice, abrasion from traffic and furniture, and often many hours of direct sun, day after day. To make matters worse, the joints between the many parts of a deck retain moisture long after the rain stops, making the wood vulnerable to rot, mildew, and wood-munching insects. To combat this barrage, deck-fin­ish manufacturers offer a variety of formulations that in­clude sealers, preservatives, UV-light inhibitors, pigments, and resins. Some are oil based and penetrating. Some are acrylic and film forming. Others are a mix. Here is a list of the most popular finishing options for a new deck:

Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.

Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.

Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.

Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitrans­parent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formu­las are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.

Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and mois­ture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will even­tually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip re­sistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.

Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in com­bination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.

Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.

Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.

Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish (page 184). A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.

Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.

Every household eventually requires the services of a handyman. Like the name implies a handyman is a professional, preferably with thorough contracting experience, that can be called upon to remedy the simple to moderate fixes that all homes eventually need. From sticking doors to patching small holes in walls made by rambunctious children, the right handyman can smooth over the inevitable rough edges of a lived in home. Every home owner has a “To Do” list of odd jobs and minor repairs that they would love to get around to. With the services of a competent handyman, these maintenance tasks can be easily completed with no headache or lost DIY weekends. Many homeowners are thankful for their handyman because they can enjoy their weekends again. In the meantime, the handyman can replace old light fixtures, install a ceiling fan, or clean out the rain gutters.
At the end of this article, you will find an organized list of typical tasks that are too small to merit the services of a plumber, electrician, or contractor but important enough to call a professional handyman.

Handyman services are also a lifesaver for single mothers who are inexperienced with home repair projects like replacing worn locks or re-caulking the bathtub. Or perhaps the single mother is simply too busy taking care of household essentials to find time for odd jobs and necessary improvements like changing air and water filters, or hanging outdoor Christmas lights. A busy schedule like that of a single working mother makes it nearly impossible to personally attend to any major or even minor home repair tasks. All the while, the “To Do”
list gets longer. There is nothing like calling a reliable handyman to come to the house and clear up that “To Do” list, like installing window coverings or shelving to increase storage space. The right handyman with the right experience can even do more intensive work usually reserved for a contractor, like installing cabinets and flooring. A handyman is also a great resource for beautification projects like applying wallpaper or hanging pictures and mirrors.

Additionally the talents of a handyman are essential to any commercial property owner or manager. With a commercial property, whether an apartment building or storefront real estate, handyman services are indispensable. It is impossible for the owner or manager of a commercial property to personally handle the constant flow of seemingly insignificant repair jobs that will arise in the course of property management. Every commercial property needs a handyman to do the odd jobs. These odd jobs come in many shapes and sizes, including but not limited to, painting a vacant unit before new tenants arrive, refinishing damaged cabinetry, patching holes in walls, removing spots from carpeting, changing locks, installing light fixtures, replacing plumbing fixtures, and general carpentry.

A good handyman is essentially a multi-purpose home maintenance wizard that can do any job in the home that is too small for a contractor.
Handymen are less expensive and usually less specialized than an electrician or carpenter, but they have experience in all fields of home repair. Most handyman professionals have extensive experience as contractors and do handyman work as a supplemental service to their contracting enterprise. Other handyman professionals are retired laborers that have decades of first hand experience with all manner of home maintenance. They are only too happy to answer a homeowner’s call for help with repairs, maintenance, and improvements.

When shopping for a handyman in your area, look for a locally based professional with good references that has been in the business a long time. Contractors are frequently the best resources for finding the right handyman in your area. It is also a good idea to check with reputable Realtors in your area. Since Realtors cannot sell a property that is not well maintained, they usually have a handyman on their roster.

A short list of typical handyman services:
Gutter Cleaning
Caulking windows and doors
Deck cleaning, staining & repairs
Fascia board repair
Garage door adjustment/repair
Leaks – ceilings, roof, other
Screens – Put up, take down, repair

Installation of…
Attic Stairs
Attic exhaust fans
Blinds and Shades
Closet Organizers
Child Safety Latches
Appliances
Curtains
Windows
Hand rails
Locks
Pet doors
Smoke detectors
Speaker, TV, computer cable
Roof Vents and Turbines
Bath exhaust fans
Range hoods

Repair of…
Ceiling leaks
Drawers
Drywall and plaster cracks
Tile/Grout
Gates and Fences
Masonry

Odd Jobs like…
Picture and mirror hanging
Furniture moving
Moving boxes
Product assembly
Clean-up and organization
Fixture installs & repair
Railings
Sanding
Walkways

As a family grows they need more space. The basement is a valuable and large source of space that is frequently overlooked by homeowners. Often when homeowners need more space in their homes they consider knocking out a wall or building an addition to their homes. What many homeowners fail to capitalize on is the significant amount of additional space that is already built into the house, space that few use to its full potential. That space is the basement.

A remodeled basement can drastically increase the amount of livable space inside of a home. A properly remodeled basement can serve any number of functions from a recreation room, laundry room, guest room, home theater, or even your own personalized sports bar. Why take a cab home from the local pub when you can just take the stairs?

Walls
Most basements have bare concrete or cinder block walls. You will need to finish the basement walls with a material of your choosing. Walls are a necessity for many reasons. Walls over the default brickwork create a more natural look to the new basement, covering exposed wiring, water pipes, and joists. Walls also provide much needed insulation. Moreover, walls create spaces to install electrical outlets, which will be a legal and practical necessity regardless of the planned usage.

Lighting
Typical basements come with very little lighting, often little more than a bare bulb with a string switch. Bear in mind, your new basement will be need to be better lit than the rest of your home, because of the absence of natural light. Lighting can be maximized by strategically adding windows or mirrored surfaces to your basement remodel plan.

Flooring
The poured concrete floor of your current basement will not do. The pores in concrete draw loads of moisture into the basement. Consider the many choices of floor coverings available for your basement. Carpet and hardwood are not recommended because they will react poorly to the moisture in the basement. Vinyl, stone and laminate flooring are better choices because they are resistant to moisture and they are easy to heat. It is wise to install electric floor heating in your renovated basement to combat the high moisture levels.

This list is not exhaustive by any means, but you cannot successfully renovate your basement without these basic considerations. Now that you are equipped with information, it’s time to do some homework. Find a reliable local contractor with a design team and ask some questions. Learn about your local building codes to see what you will have to do during the course of your project to make your basement safe and sound in the eyes of the law. Before you know it, you will be ready to get started. With the right design team, you can turn what was once an auxillary storage space into a cozy and inviting human habitat.

If you decide to remodel your basement, be sure to do the proper planning and preparing. When a home is originally erected, the basement is never intended to be a functional living space. To make it so, the designer will have to make some significant modifications to ward against darkness, moisture and cold. But if approached by a knowledgeable designer, making a basement livable is a welcome and rewarding challenge.

This brief basement remodeling guide will outline some of the essential considerations a homeowner must make before beginning a basement remodeling project. Once you are acquainted with some of the major obstacles in front of you, you will be better equipped to begin planning your basement remodel. Five essential considerations to make when assessing your basement are: moisture, usage, walls, lighting, and flooring.

Moisture
Moisture is the make-or-break factor of a basement. By virtue of being underground, all basements collect moisture. Some basements collect so much moisture that renovation is impractical or impossible. Examine your basement for significant moisture. Significant moisture means that water is actually pooling and/or dripping into your basement. If your basement is too moist, it is not a candidate for renovation and you can save yourself a lot of time by quitting while you are ahead and looking into that ground level addition project.

Usage
What do you want to use your new basement for? This is one of the most fun parts of a project. Pre-visualize the basement as it would appear after the remodel. Are you interested in building a home theater? If so, how many seats and where will you put them? Do you need a play room for the kids so you can have a little more peace and quiet upstairs? The way you choose to use the new basement will have the most affect on any subsequent design decisions. For example, if you include a guest room in your basement plan, building codes require that you equip the basement with an new exit in addition to the door that leads back into the home.

Most people are familiar with the old adage “a fresh coat of paint.” Painting anything imbues it with new life and vitality, from a car to a living room. Interior paint jobs are an indispensable and, let’s face it, messy part of home ownership. Painting must be approached with meticulous care and extensive preparation. If a paint job is not properly prepared and executed, the simplest error will become obvious and permanent, catching your eye for years to come. The best way to avoid such mistakes is to plan thoroughly and take your time with a paint job. This brief informational guide illustrates some of the basics of an interior paint job, from the shopping list to the clean up.

Flip through some catalogs and home improvement websites to choose a paint color that’s right for the room. Visit a hardware or paint store for some color samples and paint chips. Take the samples back home and compare them to your old color and your furniture. Choosing colors is a fun way to begin a painting project.

Once you’ve chosen a color, that means you are ready to begin shopping for your project. The painting trade is a highly developed industry, so you will discover that there is more painting equipment out there than a typical DIY buff ever needs to know about. To simplify things, use this basic shopping list to help you make your own.

Painting project shopping list
*Brushes and rollers
*Roller covers
*Paint trays and tray liners
*Drop cloths
*Clean up rags
*Painters tape
*Sandpaper
*Paint pail for brush work
*Paint removers
*Razors
*Paint can openers
*Ladders
*Furniture moving pads
*and of course paint

How much paint will you need?
Measure the square footage of the surfaces you will be painting. That means grab a tape measure and add the width plus the height of all the walls that will get a coat of paint. When buying the paint, read the labels or ask a professional how much square footage a particular gallon of a particular type of paint will cover.

What type of paint will you need?
The type of paint depends on the room. If you’re working on an interior paint job, the paint will need to give good coverage coupled with stain resistance. The paint should also be able to withstand occasional scrubbing so you can keep it clean for a long time. The two basic families of paint are latex paint and oil based paint. Most modern day oil based paints are actually made with synthetic resins called alkyds, that are less toxic than traditional oil base. Latex paints have excellent gloss retention and give the longest lasting finish. Latex paints are also quick to dry and very durable. Oil or Alkyd based paints are known for good adhesion and stain resistance. Oil or Alkyd based paints are great for trim in high traffic areas like kitchens and bathrooms.

Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss?
Both latex and oil paints come in a variety of finishes. Flat finish paint softens a room, smoothing the look of walls. Flat finish is not hard to clean with a damp sponge and is great for adult rooms like dining rooms, living rooms, and bedrooms. Satin finish has the benefits of a flat finish but because it has a slight gloss, it is even easier to clean. Satin finish is good for high traffic spots, like children’s bedrooms, family rooms, and hallways. Semi-gloss paint is best for areas that will be cleaned often, like kitchens and bathrooms. Gloss paint has a rich finish and is very durable. It is an ideal finish for trim and doors.

Be prepared!
Painting preparation is probably the most important part of a painting project. Remove all wall art, area rugs and furniture from the room to be painted. Then clean the room. You don’t want dust bunnies interfering with your fresh beautiful new paint. You must lay out drop cloths to cover the entire floor. You must scrape chipped and loose paint. You must clean the walls to be painted with a mildly abrasive cleaner like TSP to remove the dirt and prepare the surface to stick to a new coat of paint. Using painter’s tape, tape all edges and glass that you want to protect. If you are using a different color or gloss for the trim than you are for the walls, make sure to tape off all the trim before you begin. Make sure the room is ventilated. Open windows and doors. Have all of your tools, including painting clothes in the room to be painted. Once you finish preparation and begin acutally painting the walls, you want to avoid having to leave the room for something you forgot about.

This brief DIY guide to painting can not cover all of the details of the job. There are many types of brushes and rollers that were not discussed. Painting techniques include what order to paint in, from ceiling to floor, and how to use brushes and rollers to avoid spatter and runny application. This guide should serve as a starting point. As your painting project develops, seek out the help of painting and home improvement professionals for best results. Good luck!

Matthew Millsap is a home improvement expert. He believes in consumer education. If you need more information on general home improvement or painting in particular, please visit Building Company No. 7

By Steve Hargreaves, CNNMoney.com staff writer
On 6:32 am EST, Wednesday December 9, 2009

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President Obama proposed a new program Tuesday that would reimburse homeowners for energy-efficient appliances and insulation, part of a broader plan to stimulate the economy.

The administration didn’t provide immediate details, but said it would work with Congress on crafting legislation. Steve Nadel, director at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, who’s helping write the bill, said a homeowner could receive up to $12,000 in rebates.

The proposal is part of the President’s larger spending plan, which also includes money for small businesses, renewable energy manufacturing, and infrastructure.

We know energy efficiency “creates jobs, saves money for families, and reduces the pollution that threatens our environment,” Obama said. “With additional resources, in areas like advanced manufacturing of wind turbines and solar panels, for instance, we can help turn good ideas into good private-sector jobs.”

The program contains two parts: money for homeowners for efficiency projects, and money for companies in the renewable energy and efficiency space.

The plan will likely create a new program where private contractors conduct home energy audits, buy the necessary gear and install it, according to a staffer on the Senate Energy Committee and Nadel at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy.

Big-ticket items like air conditioners, heating systems, washing machines, refrigerators, windows and insulation would likely be covered, Nadel said.

Consumers might be eligible for a 50% rebate on both the price of the equipment and the installation, up to $12,000, said Nadel. So far, there is no income restriction on who is eligible. That would mean a household could spend as much as $24,000 on upgrades and get half back.

Homes that take full advantage of the program could see their energy bills drop as much as 20%, he said. The program is expected to cost in the $10 billion range.

It’s not clear how the home efficiency plan would be administered – the government may issue rebates to consumers directly, homeowners might get a tax credit, or the program could be run via state agencies.

If consumers have to spend a lot of money up front to get the credit, it could throw a wrench in the works, David Kreutzer, an energy analyst at the Heritage Foundation, told CNN.

“This will not be something that’s attractive to people who are having trouble already making their budget payments month to month or week to week,” he said.

To keep consumers from having to spend thousands of dollars before getting reimbursed, Nadel said, one idea is to have contractors or big box retailers pay part of the cost up front.

Fraud issues could also come up, Kreutzer said.

“Any program that is going to run through a third party and is going to distribute billions of dollars needs to have lots of checks and balances to make sure there’s not abuse,” he said.

Nadel noted that as a way to guard against fraud, contractors would have to be certified to participate.

Energy company boost

Obama’s new spending plan also calls for renewable energy companies to get additional support. That could come in the form of loan guarantees – basically, money the government uses to secure loans for startups.

In the original stimulus bill passed earlier this year, $6 billion was earmarked for such loan guarantees. But then lawmakers took away $2 billion to fund Cash for Clunkers – the popular program that paid people to turn in their old cars.

The $4 billion from the original bill has funded about $40 billion in loans, said the staffer on the Senate Energy Committee. Meanwhile, firms are hoping for another $4 billion in loan guarantees, since they have another $40 billion worth of projects that need funding.

A bill on energy efficiency reimbursements already has supporters in the Senate.

“Not only will [such legislation] increase our energy security and transform our energy infrastructure to a modern, clean and efficient one,” Senate Energy Committee Chairman Jeff Bingaman, D-N.M., wrote in a recent op-ed column in the Hill, a Capitol Hill newspaper. “But it also will position the United States to lead in the development of clean energy technologies.”

Home weatherization – what it is, why it works, and how you can do it.

Weatherization is the process of sealing and fine-tuning your home and appliances to conserve potentially large amounts of energy.  Drafty windows and doors need to be sealed.  Locate tiny holes and fill them.  Do everything possible to keep outside air outside and keep inside air inside.  Effective home weatherization can put a big, happy dent in your heating and cooling bills.

The U.S. Department of Energy has been offering home weatherization assistance for over thirty years.  The DOE helps low income families permanently reduce their utility bills through home weatherization.  President Obama’s American Recovery and Reinvestment Act has added millions and millions of dollars to this effort.  If your home is not weatherized, the time to take care of it has arrived.  You’ve got nothing to lose and money to save.

Basic facts.

The average insulated home contains small leaks between building materials that add up to a permanent 14 inch square hole in the home.  These tiny gaps, in addition to leaking energy out of the house, can cause water damage and create paths for insects to enter you home.  Imagine cutting a 14 square inch hole in your front door, letting air in and out all year, while the air conditioner or the heater is running!  With home weatherization, you can lower your utility bills, for good.

Find the leaks!

The first thing you must do is find the leaks.  Test your home yourself or call a professional contractor.  A professional contractor will conduct what is called a blower door test.  This is the most effective option, but you can find major leaks in your home by yourself.

On a cold, windy day, hold a lit stick of incense (or a small lit candle, incense is safer) next to your doors and windows.  Walk around the house and hold the lit incense up to windowsills, window edges, doorjambs, electrical outlets, ceiling fixtures, attic entries, and any where that air might find its way inside your home.  When you notice the smoke stream blow horizontally or the candle flame flicker, you’ve likely found a leak that needs sealing.  Make sure to test places where plumbing fixtures and electrical wiring penetrate exterior walls.  Check the cabinets under your sinks. Some bigger leaks you can feel with your hand.

Once you’ve found the leaks, seal them!

Caulk and weather-strip any doors and windows that leak air.  Seal air leaks where ventilation ducts, plumbing, or electrical wiring penetrate a wall.  Insulate water pipes with foam from your local hardware store.  Outlets and switch plates on exterior walls of the home should get rubber gaskets installed behind them.

If you’ve got the time and money, replace single pane windows with double pane windows.  Install storm windows in appropriate places in your home.  Modern windows can be three to five times more energy efficient than older windows.

Go up to your attic.  Inspect the insulation.  Look for dirty spots on your insulation that resemble used cigarette filters.  These are locations where air is probably moving in and out of your home.  when you find these gaps, fill them with foam, or staple a sheet of plastic over them and seal the edges of the plastic with caulk.

If you have a fireplace, close the flue whenever the fireplace is not in use.  The flue in your chimney is designed to let smoke and warm air out of the house.  It creates significant drafts.  Close it when there is no fire.

All of these various steps constitute home weatherization.  Before you begin, get some advice from your local contractor and hardware store.  If your home is very drafty, and you do a comprehensive job of weatherization, you can cut your utility bills by as much as 40 to 50%.  It’s an amazing difference, and you do not have to buy any new appliances or do any significant construction on your home.  Never underestimate the benefits of home weatherization.

The solar revolution is here.  This is your guide to the pros and cons of solar water heaters and their different types.

Hot water is among the top energy consumers in American households.  Solar energy can help bring this cost down.  With today’s advanced technology and energy efficiency tax breaks, going solar is more cost effective than ever. Installing a stand alone solar water heating system can totally eliminate your gas or electric consumption for hot water.  The prospect of free fuel is a tempting one.  These days, that prospect is more realistic than ever.

Doing The Math

A stand-alone solar water heating system could replace a conventional electric hot water heater that uses about 15 kilowatt hours of energy per day. Putting a solar heater on your roof offsets about 15 kilowatt hours worth of energy per day from other sources.  This translates into a savings of 450 kilowatt hours of energy every month on your water heater alone.  The average cost of energy in the US, as of April 2009, was $.12 per kilowatt hour.  A solar water heater can save you up to $54 per month, or $648 per year.  Imagine how quickly your solar water heater will pay for itself.

Pros and Cons of Solar Water Heaters

There are many options to consider with solar water heating.  As a general rule, the higher the upfront cost of a solar water heater, the greater the long-term savings.  Also, a solar water heating system has an average lifespan of 20 years.  This is almost three times longer than a conventional electric or gas powered water heater.  You will replace your conventional water heater 2 or 3 times before you need a new solar water heater.

How Solar Water Heaters Work

Solar water heaters have two main parts: the collector and the circulation system.  The collector gathers the solar energy and coverts it to heat energy for the water.  The circulation system stores the hot water and delivers it to your tap.  The collectors and the circulation systems exist in several combinations.  Use the following basic facts to start your research.

Three types of collector

1.Batch Collectors.  Batch collectors heat water in a dark tank inside of an insulated box.  Water is stored in the collector until you need it.  If demand is low, water can become very hot.  So hot that you may need to install a damper valve to prevent scalding at the tap.  Batch collectors are the simplest solar water heater systems, ideal for warmer climates.

2.Flat Plate Collectors.  Flat plate collectors are usually made out of a series of small copper tubes fitted underneath flat absorber plates.  The flat plate is protected in an insulated box and covered with tempered glass, to extract as much solar energy as possible.  The average flat plate collector holds about 40 gallons of water.

3.Evacuated Tube Collectors.  Evacuated tube collectors are the most efficient.  They consist of glass or metal tubes that contain the water or a heat transfer liquid.  These tubes are surrounded by larger glass tubes.  The space between the inner tube and the outer tube is a vacuum, providing excellent insulation against heat loss.  Evacuated tube collectors are effective in even the coldest weather as long as they can get light.

Four Types of Circulation Systems

1.Direct.  Direct circulation systems are simplest and most common in climates that do not experience much freezing.  Water is usually heated in the collector itself then stored in a tank or delivered directly from the collector to the your tap.

2.Indirect.  Indirect, or Closed-loop circulation systems are better for colder climates, where freezing is more common.  They use and anti-freezing liquid to transfer the heat from the sun to the water, which stays in storage tanks.

3.Active.  Active circulation systems use electric pumps to move the water from the collectors to a storage tank, then to your tap.

4.Passive.  Passive circulation systems use convection to move water to a storage tank as it heats up.  No pumps are required.

The sun’s cheap, renewable energy is good for the environment and good for your bank account.  Going solar has a bigger upfront cost than staying with power station electricity or natural gas.  But after set up, the fuel is free and the solar water heater will last three times longer than a conventional water heater. With the right tax credits and the right installation company, solar power pays for itself in about five years. If you are a homeowner, that is no time at all.  After this time, your hot water will essentially be free, produced on your premises.

With new energy efficiency tax credits, the time for replacement windows is now.  Here’s how to choose the right windows.

In February of 2009, the President enacted a bunch of energy tax credits as part of his American Reinvestment and Recovery Plan.  This legislation is great for the American homeowner.  Some basic remodeling will increase the energy efficiency of your home may earn you up to a 30% tax credit.  One of the easiest and most effective renovations a homeowner can perform is to install replacement windows.

Recent developments in replacement window materials and manufacture have made them more attractive energy efficient than ever.  Compared to other forms of beautification and insulation, replacement windows require little labor.  On top of the tax credit for buying them, replacement windows immediately start bringing down your heating and cooling bills.

It’s settled.  Now what?

By installing replacement windows this year you stand to gain a tax credit and immediate energy bill savings.  Only one question remains:  Where to start?  Start by considering the replacement window options available to you.  There is a lot of versatility in replacement windows.  You do not need to install a window type identical to the one you are removing.

Learn your window frames and types.

Do your homework. Have a talk with an architect or designer about the style of your home.  Ask questions about frames.  Aluminum frames are inexpensive, but insulate poorly.  Aluminum frames will need a thermal break.  Wooden frames insulate well and have an elegant look, but will cost more.  Additionally, vinyl and fiberglass frames offer the greatest insulation at the lowest cost.  Many consumers choose vinyl or fiberglass frames.

Know your six window types.  Which types are eligible for the tax credit?  Ask your supplier.  The old Energy Star rating may not be enough.  These simple steps will help you decide on the best replacement windows.

6 types of replacement windows.

1. Casement windows.  Casement windows are large panel, often crank operated, windows.  They swing open similar to a door.  They offer lots of natural light and a broad view of outside.  Casement windows can be cleaned on each side from inside your home.  If you get the right kind, they can be very energy efficient.

2. Awning windows.  Awning windows are hinged windows, similar to casement windows.  But they do not open from the side like a door.  Awning windows swing open outward from the top.  These are the one of the oldest type of window still in use.  They are great for letting in fresh air during any weather.  They open like an awning, so even rainwater is kept out while fresh air comes in.

3. Double Hung windows.  Probably the most popular windows, double hung windows contain two vertical sashes.  These sashes slide up and down along independent grooves.  You can open the top half or the bottom half of double hung windows.  Because of the popularity and effectiveness of double hung windows, they are available in just about any size or color.  Typical double hung windows are a very common shape and size.  This means new double hungs will often fit into your existing window frames, if they are in good condition.  Another cost saver on installation.

4. Gliding windows.  Gliding windows are also known as horizontal slider windows.  These are the types of windows associated with sliding patio doors.  Gliding windows can also be used nicely in bedroom and living rooms.  They are similar to double hung windows, but they open from the left or right, rather than the top of bottom.

5. Picture and Transom windows.  These are accent windows.  Picture and transom windows are stationary windows that do not open.  They are found over doorways or other larger opening windows, like double hungs.  Picture and transom windows increase and brighten your view of the outdoors, without any moving hardware.

6. Bow and Bay windows.  Bow and bay windows create more interior space, quickly making a room bigger and brighter.  They are installed in groups from three to six windows.  Bow and bay windows sweep in an attractive arch away from the room.  Casement and double hung windows are the most common components of bow or bay windows.  Bay windows often have a bench installed along the bottom so you can sit and admire the view outside.  They are an excellent way to beautify and expand a room.

Now that you are armed with information, cash in on the energy efficiency tax credit this year.  Get those drafty old windows out of your lovely home.  Do yourself and your home a favor by installing replacement windows.  Remember, the credit is only allowable for windows purchased and installed during 2009 and 2010.  For information about home improvement and the new tax credits, visit http://www.buildingcompanynumber7.com