Deck Sealants are Worth the Trouble

If you are wondering why you can’t use just any finish on your deck, think about the abuse decking must handle, in­cluding pounding rain, snow, and ice, abrasion from traffic and furniture, and often many hours of direct sun, day after day. To make matters worse, the joints between the many parts of a deck retain moisture long after the rain stops, making the wood vulnerable to rot, mildew, and wood-munching insects. To combat this barrage, deck-fin­ish manufacturers offer a variety of formulations that in­clude sealers, preservatives, UV-light inhibitors, pigments, and resins. Some are oil based and penetrating. Some are acrylic and film forming. Others are a mix. Here is a list of the most popular finishing options for a new deck:

Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.

Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.

Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.

Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitrans­parent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formu­las are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.

Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and mois­ture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will even­tually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip re­sistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.

Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in com­bination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.

Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.

Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.

Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish (page 184). A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.

Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.

Pre-Design Tips for Adding a Deck

While there are many more possibilities open to you when designing a new home, you may be surprised at what you can do when adding on—especially when your deck addition is part of a bigger remodeling project. Think outside the box.

Consider the Unusual Deck

An entry deck, with the addition of trellises for privacy, may provide the tradi­tional front-porch feel you’ve always wanted. Adding a master suite above the garage⁷ Build a balcony to the front or back, or wrap it around three sides. A pocket deck off a first-level bathroom, enveloped with green­ery, might just become a perfect retreat for when you need to take a break from the mad rush of daily life.

Equip it with an outdoor shower, and you’ll come to know what luxury really means.

The Right Height Deck

In many situations, though not all, you will have some flexi­bility as to how high you build your deck. A first-level deck, for example, can go anywhere from a few inches above ground level to a few inches below the level of the interior floor. The height of a second-level deck may be more lim­ited. There are existing windows above and below as well as door placement to consider. No matter where you’re plan­ning to put your deck, the general guideline is to build it as low as you can. Doing so will make it less complex to build, safer to use, less costly, less likely to interfere with views from windows and patio doors, easier to make private, and more likely to blend with the house and yard. It will also take up less of your yard with space-consuming stairs. If you do want an upper-story deck, make it as small as you can while still meeting your needs. Doing so will make it easier to fit with the style of your home and won’t put the lower floor in per­petual shadow. 

Cut Cooling Bills with a Deck

A south-facing elevated deck (on a second or third level] can be an energy-saver. In the summer, with the sun at a high trajec­tory, the deck will shade windows and doors and keep the lower level cool. In the winter, when the sun crosses the southern sky at a lower angle, south-facing windows and patio doors on the level below the deck will receive the sun and its warmth. Such a deck should not be built too deep—about 6 feet in most locations works well.

Maximize Your Best Views with Your New Deck

Where you place your deck will largely determine your view. Off a second or third floor, it will be expansive. Nearer to the ground, you’ll have a better vantage of your yard and garden, but not much else. Unless you have some­thing special to look at though, opt for the latter for the reasons already mentioned (cost, ease of construction, safety, privacy, etc.). If you do have a great view, make the most of it and locate your deck accordingly. If your view is mixed, block out the eyesore with a well-placed fence (built on the deck) or trellis. Trees, hedges, and shrubs can also detract or hide what you’d rather not look at.

Ensure Privacy with Deck Placement

Deck placement will also affect your privacy. Once again, keep your deck’s height low if you can. It will eliminate most privacy problems or make them a lot easier to solve. If you do find that your preferred deck location is in view of your neighbors, trellises, deck-top fences, and plantings can help. A solid guardrail, especially for a raised deck, can also create the privacy you require. When creating privacy with a fence or plantings, take care not to inadvertently block a view which your neighbor may value (of a lake, for instance).  If you have no choice, install a privacy screen that can be removed or rolled up when your deck is not in use.  Outdoor curtains, made with a weather-resist­ant fabric, are also a gracious solution.

Use Natural Assets for Your Deck Whenever Possible

Rough, steep, or uneven terrain in a backyard is normally a liability. When designing a deck, however, you may be able to turn it to your advantage. A moderately sloping site may be a natural for a multilevel deck that steps down (or up) the incline. With a steep slope, a deck may be your only way to have a bit of backyard—and the view is likely to be interesting. Large rock outcroppings or boulders provide natural focal points for your deck project and should also be considered an asset that is worked into the design. Trees are often allowed to penetrate decks, but this can be a tricky detail.  Yes, some homeowners actually build their deck around a favorite tree or two.  It is something your guests will always remember but you will want to consult with your deck contractor first.

Adding a Deck onto an Older Home

Designing a deck for an older home can be a real challenge. While decks often look natural on homes built after World War II, such as ranches and split-levels, they are often an awkward fit for Victorian, Tudor, and Spanish-style homes. Even early Colonials, Colonial revivals of the 1920s and 30s, and cape cods can be overpowered visually by a deck if it’s not carefully designed. In such cases, architects often keep decks unobtrusive and low to the ground, often eliminating the need for railings. Another approach is to choose a porch-like design for your deck.

 

New tongue-and-groove synthetic decking looks like the nar­row wood planks often used for porch floors, but it can withstand the elements with little maintenance. It’s particularly important with pe­riod homes to keep the deck in the scale of the house. Some designers suggest that the deck shouldn’t be bigger than the biggest room in the house.

 

Finally, work hard to integrate architectural elements from the house into the deck. Borrow from the profiles of existing columns when choosing balusters; pick up fluting details from columns, and use them on deck posts; mimic the width of fascias and pilasters. Look to your home’s water table (boards installed below siding on some older homes) for ideas on how to trim out the perimeter of your deck.

 

Custom Deck Guardrails for Older Homes

If your home is architecturally distinctive, consider installing a custom guardrail that echoes an existing architectural element, such as flared siding or existing work, and if your house’s architecture is not unusual, you may want to consider a custom guardrail. For example, ranches really have a horizontal look that merges well with garages and landscaping. To retain this quality, you may choose a solid guardrail or one with an open grid rather n using the traditional vertical balusters. Wrought iron steel balustrades with serpentine, curved, or concentric designs can be just the touch to dress up a raised ranch. Keep in mind that custom work will add to the job’s cost. Working through a local fabricator or mill to cut or bend repetitive components may be cheaper (and better) than cutting materials on site.

Railing Kits and Systems

 

Nowadays, handrail and guardrail systems are a great way to add panache to what would otherwise be an ordinary deck. Manufacturers—particularly those of synthetic deck­ing materials—have responded to consumers’ growing de­sire for distinctive railings by creating easy-to-install railing kits. Some systems are as simple as a stack of bowed-steel balusters and a spacing tool to ease installation. Others offer preassembled balustrade panels that you cut to length and snap between specially extruded rails. Some builders mix and match, using preassembled balustrade sections set into conventionally framed wood posts and rails. For a lighter, contemporary look—and one that’s less likely to block your view—consider guardrails made with stainless-steel cable or rods, tempered glass, or aluminum. Make sure they meet building codes in your area before you make your purchase.

Skirts and Skirting

Skirt or fascia boards are typically 1-inch-wide trim pieces that may be used to hide rough framing, such as header joists. You can paint them to match your house trim or finish them to match the decking or railings. Run skirt boards under overhanging deck boards, or cover decking edges and ends for a flush look. They should extend an inch or two lower than the framing they cover. As wood-to-wood contact promotes rot, apply pre­servative and use spacers to create an air space between skirt boards and joists. An air space is not necessary when using synthetic trim boards over pressure-treated wood.

 

To hide the entire space between deck and ground, use skirting panels. Made with wood or composite boards, or with lattice panels, they help keep balls, pets, and other animals from getting under the deck. Lattice is available in both pressure-treated wood and vinyl. A solid skirt gives the deck a more massive, formal look, as if the deck were built on a founda­tion. Open lattice, either in a diamond or windowpane pattern, has a lighter feeling and allows ventilation (important in damp climates). Choosing to use no skirting panels will make the deck look as if it were floating—especially if you have cantilevered the joists and decking around the perimeter.  If you do opt for skirting, be sure to include one or more access doors to the space you’re enclosing.

Where to Put Your Outdoor Deck

Selecting the right location for your new outdoor deck may seem obvi­ous; nevertheless, it’s worth thinking through all of the possibilities. You’re bound to discover surprises, some pleasant and others not. For example, where are the best views? Hop on a ladder you need with pri­vacy screens or overhead structures? What is the best way to build around items that would be difficult and expensive to move, such as natural rock outcroppings, trees, and basement doors?  Climb to deck height, and check them out. While you’re there, anticipate the views of your deck from neighbors’ windows and yards. Will you be able to create the privacy?

The location of most decks will often be determined by the interior room (or rooms) you want to connect it to. For an outdoor deck used to cook and serve meals, connecting to the kitchen or dining room is imperative. For sun­bathing and spa splashing, locate your deck off a family room, basement room, or spare bedroom. There are plenty of possibilities for locating ele­vated decks as well, including bed­rooms, bathrooms, over-the-garage recreation rooms, and hallways.

Other site considerations include the style of your home’s exterior. The best location for a deck may be trumped because it will destroy a key feature of your home. Or, the best site may be too expensive to build on be­cause of uneven or unstable terrain. Exposure to sun and wind are also important considerations, although they can be mitigated by careful plan­ning. Finally, call all utilities to learn the locations of buried water, gas, sewer, and electric lines.

The Importance of Weather Exposure on a Deck

Assuming you have more than one option for where to build your deck, exposure to the sun may be the deciding factor. Sun exposure is determined by the proposed deck’s orientation to the sun’s daily path. A south-facing deck will receive sun almost all day. East- and west-facing decks get sun in the morning and afternoon, respectively. Southeast­er southwest-facing decks will receive the sun for longer periods than decks that face due east or west. North-facing decks, unless extended beyond the shadow of your house, will receive little or no sun for much of the day.

To decide what’s best for you, think about when you’ll be using your deck. If it’s for your morning coffee, south­east- or east-facing may be your preference. An afternoon and evening user would probably prefer a southwest- or west-facing deck. If you live in a climate where summers are cool, perhaps south-facing is the ideal orientation. Conversely, if you live where it’s warm most of the time, a northern exposure may suit you.

Of course, you will need to take into account the shade thrown by nearby trees and buildings. Keep in mind that you can always create shade by planting trees or adding an overhead shade structure, such as a pergola or gazebo. Also note that you can wrap your deck around two sides of your house to take advantage of both sun and shade.

In many locations, wind is another factor to consider. If you live in a cool climate where the prevailing wind is fre­quently gusty, opt for the protected side of your house to increase the time you can spend on your deck. If that’s not possible, you can build a wind screen. If you live in a hot climate, the breeze may bring welcome re­lief from the heat.

Fit the Deck to Your Floor Plan

In addition to creating outdoor living space for you, your family, and your guests, a good deck design can improve your home’s floor plan. For example, a deck can extend the area of a small room, such as a bedroom or dining room. It can also connect two areas of the home, improving traffic flow from one part of the house to another. Decks are often used to join a kitchen and family room. Multilevel decks can connect an upper level of your home to a lower level or to the yard. Wraparound decks can connect two parts of both your house and yard, which is especially useful when the terrain around your home is rough. Your design can also allow for an entirely new room, such as an outdoor en­tertainment area or a secluded retreat.

Locate Hidden Obstacles in an Outdoor Deck

Check out the location of everything on your property that is near the planned construction site. Chances are, the outdoor deck will limit access to, or interfere with, at least one of them. It’s common, for example, to have exterior spigots end up below deck level. You can either relocate them or build a small trap door for access. Also, do not plan to build near a septic tank. Setbacks of 15 to 20 feet are usually required. Other in-ground obstacles may include buried water piping, electrical lines to the garage or pool, gas lines to the barbecue, sump pump and rainwater drains, basement doors, and buried oil tanks.

A good contractor will help you with these details when planning and designing your outdoor deck. These details will ensure that you will enjoy outdoor living to its fullest for many years to come.

Deck Building Basics

The first consideration in deck building design is always how you plan to use it. If all you want is a place for sunbathing and small family gatherings, a small deck may suit your needs. However, if you plan to entertain large groups of people, you’ll need a deck the size of a large room.

Cost is always a consideration in deck building. One option is to build a deck in modules, adding on as you can afford to do so. You can save a lot of money if you build it yourself.  It is almost always better to hire a professional contractor if you can afford it.

The least expensive deck is a single platform at ground level with simple safety railings. As you make the deck more complicated — adding more than one level or elevating the deck to a second-story entrance, for example — the cost will increase.

The type of material you use to build the deck is an important factor in its cost. The cheapest material used is pressure-treated pine. (Don’t be fooled into using cheap untreated pine for a low or ground-level deck –in less than five years you’ll have to replace the rotted deck.) Cedar, redwood and cypress are also used, but they cost more than pressure-treated pine.

Foundations are Key in Deck Building
A good deck begins with a good foundation. Posts must be anchored in the ground by burying them in concrete or attaching them to concrete piers. In some localities, pier blocks are accepted, but in many areas the posts or piers must extend several feet into the ground or at least 6 in. below the frost line.

Equally important is the fungal and insect resistance of the foundation. Decks that sit low to the ground and are surrounded by plants tend to be damp, and untreated posts, beams and joists are subject to rot. Even decks that are built on pier blocks are not safe from insects. Termites can travel through tiny cracks in the pier blocks and into the structure of the deck.  Deck infestation can lead to an infestation in the home.

No matter what wood you choose for the decking,  all posts, beams and joists should be made of pressure-treated wood.  Ensure that it is rated for in-ground use and is stamped by an approved inspection agency or tagged with the manufacturer’s warranty. You can use cedar, redwood or stained pressure-treated pine for the decking and other above-ground parts.

Always submit your deck plan to your municipal planning or codes office for approval. Most cities require a building permit, and some deck-building codes are very strict.

The Deck Structure
Posts support the joists and beams throughout most of the deck area, but the ends of the joists near the house are typically attached to a ledger with joist hangers. Ledgers are attached to the foundation or rim joist of the house. If the deck is at the same level as the house siding the siding and ledger (if used) must be flashed, and clearance must be maintained between the siding the header joist and the decking for water drainage. See your local municipal engineer for approved methods.

When adding a deck to a home with a stone foundation where it’s not possible or desirable to attach a ledger to the house rim joist, you can place posts near the foundation to support the deck. Leave a 1-in.-wide space between the ends of the deck boards and the side of the house for water drainage.

Beams are attached to the sides of the posts with carriage bolts or lag screws. Joists may be placed on top of the beams or between them. If they’re placed on top, toenail the joists to the beams and fasten them to the ledger and timber joists with joist hangers or other framing fasteners. Use joist hangers to attach joists between the beams. When the joist length exceeds 8 ft., install blocking at 4-ft. intervals.

The distance between the beams (joist span) determines the load rating for decks. Spans vary for different species of wood and depend on the size and spacing of the joists, Most codes limit the maximum spacing of joists to 24 in, when they’re supporting 2x or radius-edge decking (see table, right). To keep radius-edge decking from feeling springy and when running deck boards at an angle, use 16-in. joist spacing. At one time, decks were required to support a 60-pound-per-square-foot live load and a 10-psf dead load. Today most municipalities have lowered the requirement to a 40-psf live load, which is the same as the requirement for private dwellings.

Deck Building Choices
The most commonly used lumber for decking is 2×4, 2×6 and 5/4×6 (radius-edge) boards. You can lay deck boards in patterns to create interest, or you can alternate 2×4 and 2×6 boards. On multilevel decks, making pattern changes at each level alerts people to the change of levels.

Be selective in choosing decking — the better it is, the longer it will last. Cracks and knots absorb water, and freeze-and-thaw cycles can quickly destroy a low-grade board.

When laying deck boards, proper orientation of the bark side is necessary to minimize cupping. If a board has a vertical grain, cupping is not a factor. But if it has a horizontal gain, you need to orient it so it will cup down rather than up. If the boards are dry, install them with the bark side up. When the boards get wet, the bark side of the board will expand more than the pith side, and the boards will cup toward the pith side. If the boards are wet, as many pressure-treated boards are, they should be installed with the bark side down. When these boards dry, they wi11 cup toward the bark side.

Moisture content also determines how much space you should have between the boards. If the boards are dry (with a moisture content of 19 percent or less), they should be installed with 1/8- to 1/4-in. spacing for water drainage. If the boards are wet, butt them together. They’ll shrink and form spaces as they dry.

Deck boards can be installed with nails or screws. As the boards shrink and swell with changes in moisture content, smooth-shank nails invariably pop out of the boards, so ring-shank nails are a better choice. However, screws are the best fasteners. They won’t pop, and they’re easier to remove if a board needs to be replaced. Use plated or stainless steel deck screws to prevent rust stains.

To avoid splitting the ends of the boards when driving fasteners, drill 1/8-in. clearance holes. When using dry pressure-treated pine, it’s a good idea to drill clearance holes at the intervening nail/screw locations as well.

Steps and Stairs
Deck stairs can be more expansive and have gentler rises and broader treads than indoor stairways. Codes usually require that stairs be at least 36 in. wide. You can buy precut stringers, which makes stair building easy. If you’re making your own stringers, use 2x10s or 2x12s.

The standard stairway has a 7-in. rise and an 11-in. tread. To lay out a standard stairway, determine the total rise from the ground to the top of the decking. Divide the total rise by 7 to determine the number of risers (round to the nearest whole number). Then divide the total rise by the number of risers to determine the exact unit rise. To figure the total run, multiply the trait run (11 in.) by the number of treads (one less than the number of risers).

To lay out the treads on the stringer, mark the rise on the tongue of your flaming square and mark the run on the blade. Beginning at the bottom of the stringer, position the square so the marks are flush with the edge of the stringer and mark the rise and run with a pencil.

Stairs with more than three risers require handrails at a height of 30 to 38 in. above the nosing (overhang) of the treads.

Deck Railings
Decks that are more than 30 in. above the ground at the edge of the deck require a 36-in.-tall guardrail. The guardrail can be incorporated into a bench or seat. Generally, codes require that ornamental closures be designed so that a 6-in.-dia. or larger object cannot pass through. The horizontal spacing between vertical members (balusters) should be 3-1/2 in. or less. Attach railings with screws rather than nails.

Finishing the Deck
Unpainted wood that is left outside will weather to a gray hue. This indicates degradation of the wood caused primarily by exposure to ultraviolet light. Decks should be protected with a stain or clear finish that contains a UV inhibitor and mildewcide. For the best protection, apply water-base finishes annually; reapply oil-base finishes every two years.

Discussing Different Types of Insulation

No home is complete without the right insulation. Though insulation is not a very visible part of the home, it is impossible to build a modern home without it. The right insulation in your home can go a long way toward increasing your family’s comfort, saving you significant energy costs, and preserving our environment.
Different types of insulation work toward some of these goals better than others. Some insulation that is better for the environment is not as effective at temperature control. Your insulation needs will vary depending on the climate and temperature range where you live.

What kind of home insulation types are available out there? Which one is best for your needs? Which ones are the most cost effective? This guide to the different types of insulation will answer those questions and more. It will start by outlining the most common materials used to insulate a home. It will also discuss the pros and cons of these insulation types, based on climate and expense. This guide covers three traditional materials for home insulation and introduces the wide variety of green materials available to reduce the carbon footprint of traditional home insulation materials.

Asbestos
Asbestos is highly recognized but no longer used. Asbestos is a good, fireproof thermal insulator, but it causes cancers. Asbestos was banned in 1989 for its carcinogenic qualities. Most uses of asbestos are prohibited, unless performed under strict regulations.

Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI)
UFFI is another culprit in the green movement. In the 1970s, UFFI caused high formaldehyde emissions levels in over ten thousand homes. UFFI is generally considered one of the unhealthier insulations, especially if improperly applied.

Fiber glass
Fiber glass is a cheap and effective insulating and weatherproofing material. Fiber glass is made from glass heated to high tempretures and treated with boron and a phenol formaldehyde binder for fireproofing and texture. The glass is then spun into a wool-like blanket material, typically pink or yellow in color.

Fiber glass insulation is readily available and is easy to cut and install. It is important to remember, when working with fiber glass, to wear protective gear, including gloves and clothes that cover all of your skin. Also, fiber glass must not be moistened or compressed. To ensure proper insulation, all ends should be butted together flush and firm. Fiber glass has its share of problems, too. If it gets wet it can transform into a breeding ground for microorganisms. Fiber glass can cause severe skin allergies. Also the phenol formaldehyde binder may release offensive ammonia-like or dead-fish odors.

The federal government has made strides ensuring fiber glass be more ecologically responsible. The US Environmental Protection Agency requires all large fiber glass manufacturers to use at least 20% recycled glass in the production process. This brings up another important sustainability fact about fiber glass. The boron used to make debris glass flame retardant and more flexible is a relatively rare element. Almost all boron comes from only two large deposits in the whole world, so it should not be over used.

Mineral Wool, Including Rock Wool
Mineral wool and rock wool are the once common predecessors to fiber glass. Rather than heating, treating and spinning glass into insulating fiberous mats, manufacturers use iron ore slag or natural volcanic rock. Because of the source material for mineral wools, they automatically contain an average of 75% recycled industrial content. Mineral wools are excellent insulators of heat and are very fire resistant.

Cellulose
Cellulose is a strong contender in the green home improvement world. Recycled cellulose is getting a lot of attention as an effective insulating material. Cellulose insulation for homes is made up of 4/5 post-consumer newspaper. The remaining 20% of cellulose insulation is made of fire retardant chemicals and sometimes acrylic binders. In the long term, the biggest disadvantage of cellulose insulation is its susceptibility to moisture. If cellulose insulation gets wet, the water can leech out the fire retardant borates, weakening the insulation’s fireproofing ability.

Textile
Textile insulation is made from mill scraps of cotton and polyester. This fiber mixture is then fluffed up with shredded plastic for volume and treated again with borates to prevent pest infestations and retard fire. Cotton and textile insulation is more expensive than traditional fiberglass, but better for human health and the environment.

Straw
Some green builders are drawing from history and using bales of straw for insulating exterior walls. Straw is actually quite effective, but it requires special precautions to prevent moisture and insect infestations.

Foam insulations
There are many types of foam insulation compounds, including polyisocyanurate, polyurethane, and polystrene. Foam insulations can cause irritation of the nose, eyes, and respiratory system. Some foams used to be blown with chlorofluorocarbons (CFC), but have gradually been replaced by hydrochloro-fluorocarbons (HCFC). HCFC are not quite as damaging to the Earth’s ozone layer. Some foam insulation is not blown, and therefore does not need CFCs and HCFCs for application. An example of this kind of foam is expanded polystrene, or EPS. EPS is foam insulation in board stock form laid into wall cavities, rather than sprayed into them.

It’s clear that most insulation comes with some risk to the environment. As time and technology move on, more ecologically sound and effective insulation choices are sure to become available. Since building without insulation is impossible, a homeowner’s best bet is to get educated and demand insulation solutions and materials that will suit the consumer and help the environment.

Is It Time For A New Roof?

A new roof is every homeowners most dreaded home improvement task. Lots of homeowners want to renovate their kitchens or bathrooms, but no homeowner wants to install a new roof. If the roof over your head lasts as long as you own the home, all the better. But that is not always the case. Every 20 or 30 years, sometimes sooner, homes need their roofing either replaced or reinforced.

A homeowner that suspects it is time to install a new roof needs to be sure. In this homeowner’s guide to residential roofing, you will learn some of the basic symptoms of a roof in need of replacement. Followed by that will be a brief outline of the work necessary to properly install a new roof, including the extensive preparations. Also covered are some of the roofing features available like a drip edge and an ice shield. Let’s get to it.

How do you know if it’s time for a new roof?
If your roof is leaking it will be obvious. Stains on the ceiling inside are a tell tale sign. Sometimes, though, a leak in the roof can be repaired locally without the entire roof being replaced. For the big picture, look for a combination of factors including the following:

*Algae growth – Airborne algae produce a dark discoloration on the roof that resembles soot or dirt.

*Curling, blistering, or missing shingles – These can be caused by moisture, poor workmanship, or high winds.

*Damaged flashing – This is caused by drying or cracking on an old roof, improper nailing, or settling of the home over time.

*Buckling – Buckling can happen when the house settles, if new shingles are applied over old ones, or because of poor workmanship. Poor workmanship includes improperly applied felt, wrinkeld underlayment, or lack of spacers between the roof deck and boards.

*Missing granules – Granules naturally wear off of shingles, but if there are so many loose granules that they are filling up your gutters or if the mat underneath is exposed, then your shingles have officially gotten too old.

*Signs of rot – This is more common in organic base shingles. Consider replacing with fiberglass shingles to avoid rot.

What does it take to install a new roof?
A good roofing crew will have a system in place when you order your new roof, including preparation. Without undergoing significant preparation, a homeowner risks the integrity of their new roof. If a roof is poorly prepared, it will quickly develop crack, holes, and eventually leaks.

Typically, the team will take up most of your yard, laying out the new roofing materials. Also they usually pull a dump truck up to the side of the house to throw in all of the old roof detritus that will be torn off and trashed. If you cringe at the thought of a heavy dump truck crushing your lawn, ask your roofer about a new technology called Mr. Buggy, which is a great dump truck alternative. The team will remove all the old shingles and pull out the old nails. At this stage it is time to replace or secure the roof boards. Each roof board should be inspected individually to ensure the future integrity of the new roof.

All debris must be removed from the roof at this point, because demolition will be over. It will be time to begin the actual installation portion of the roofing project. Next the team must install an aluminum drip edge along the eaves of the roof using galvanized nails to prevent rust. After the drip edge, it is wise but not necessary to install an adhesive ice and water sheild. This can be expensive but it is well worth it in wet or cold climates. Some states’ building codes require the ice and water shield, so do your homework.

Then the team will entirely cover the roof area with felt or roofing paper in overlapping rows from the bottom up, fastening it down with roofing tacks. Finally the new shingles are attached, from the bottom corner of the roof up to the very top. Any hips and valleys are overlapped, using a herringbone technique.

It’s over now. Congratulations!

Roofing is arduous work, requiring lots of manpower, that is best handled by professionals. Roofing requires a significant amount of demolition and preparation before the familiar shingles or shake are fastened down. It sounds simple here, but it takes days, and it is a very dirty and labor intensive job. The good news is that when the roof is done, it looks so ordered, fresh and beautiful that the whole house seems to smile to be wearing a new top. And as a homeowner, you are allowed decades of cozy security under a healthy new roof.

Year-Round Home Maintenance Guide

Home maintenance  is a necessary and year round process for prolonging the life of your home.  Regular
home maintenance  keeps a home clean, valuable and comfortable.  Home maintenance covers a wide array of concerns from pest control, to weatherstripping, to gutter cleaning and beyond.  Concientious preventative maintenance is more cost effective than repairing a problem that gets out of hand.  This brief guide breaks up
home maintenance into two general categories, interior and exterior.  You will find that many of these tasks you can take care of yourself.  For others, it is a good idea to call a local handyman.  A professional handyman will have the tools, time and experience to help you maximize the life of your home.  A good handyman can perform routine inspections in the spring and fall, while taking care of minor repairs year round.

Exterior
Roofs, gutters, and downspouts.  Roofing needs to be inspected while the weather is nice.  Look for damaged or missing shingles, bubbles, blisters or areas where the gravel has eroded.  Tree branches that touch the roof need to be pruned back.  Gutters need to be cleaned and checked for leaks and blockage.  Look for spots that need re-securing due to rust or other erosion.  Check the seams of downspouts for any splits.  A downspout with a split is usually blocked with debris.  Inspect eaves, soffits and fascia, for peeling paint, rot or vermin damage.

Walls, foundation walls, and siding.  Check all walls for signs of the house settling.  Inspect stone walls and foundation walls for any brick and mortar deterioration.  With wooden walls, look for rot, damaged boards and areas of contact between wood and soil, which will accelerate deterioration.  For stucco, look for cracks and separating.  If any surfaces are painted, and the paint is blistering or bubbling, it can mean that moisture is seeping out of or into the house.  Examine the siding of the home for any loose or missing parts.  Trim back trees, vines, and other plant life.  Vines especially will work their way into the smallest gaps in siding and spread them open.

Doors, windows, porches and decks.  Replace any damaged window panes.  Check frames and window sills for deteriorated paint.  Repaint as needed.  Make sure the caulk and weatherstripping are intact and functional.  Clean out window wells.  All wooden parts of porches and decks need periodic inspection.  Make sure railings and steps are secure.  Look for rot or evidence of insect infestation.  Re-stain the wood as needed.

Outdoor wiring.  Make sure exterior outlets have proper covers and ground fault circuit interrupters.  Wires leading away from the house or out to buildings like the garage need to be inspected for any loose wiring or frays.

Interior

Walls, ceilings and doors.  Look in dead air corners and nooks for evidence of mildew or condensation.  Inspect for cracks or signs of water damage on interior finish.  This can be evidence of high humidity in the house, which leads to rot.  Look for bulges in ceilings and walls.  Examine door frames, looking for any that are out of square.  A door frame that becomes out of square within six months is considered fast movement in structural terms, and may indicate a larger structural problem.  Make careful notation of movement or changes to be able to compare it in the future.

Main electrical panel and indoor wiring.  This maintenance should be done by a qualified electrician at least once per year, for the safety of the home and the homeowner.  Check the main electrical panel for any signs of moisture penetration.  Test all breakers to make sure none have stuck.  Label the circuits.  Look for burnt wires.  Tighten fuses and aluminum wire connections.  Test the ground fault circuit interruptors.  For indoor wiring, replace any frayed or damaged wiring, including appliance cords and extension cords.  Tighten loose switches and electrical outlets.

Water heaters and plumbing.  Use the test lever on the water heater’s pressure relief valve to make sure that the valve is not stuck.  Depending on the region, sludge may gather at the bottom of the hot water tank.  Drain a small amount of water from the tank to make sure there is no sludge.  If there is, regular draining will be in order.  Grab a bucket if the hot water heater does not discharge near a drain.

HVAC systems.  This includes all heating and air conditioning in the home.  Check all filters monthly.  Clean or replace filters as needed.  Listen for noisy blowers and note them to a technician.  Lubricate circulation pumps and drain expansion tanks.  Whether an oil, gas, or electric system, have a technician inspect furnaces and boilers to make sure they are working properly and all connections are snug.  Examine exhaust pipes for corrosion or loose sections.  For cooling systems, recharge as necessary.  Check the condensate drain line for leaks during the cooling season.  Check the outdoor unit, to make sure it is level and running properly.  Listen for any fan noise that may indicate a failed bearing or poor alignment.  Inspect refrigerant lines for any problematic insulation.  Clean up debris and trim plants away from the outdoor unit.

Attics.  Inspect the attic once or twice a year.  Look for water stains, rot, mildew, or fungus.  These are clues the attic has high humidity.  Make sure insulation is dry and that attic vents are unobstructed.  Look for any bird nests or evidence of pests in the attic.  If so, call an exterminator.

This guide is meant to get a home owner started thinking proactively about preventative home maintenance.  Preventing problems is a lot cheaper fixing them.  Recruit a handyman and develop a yearly or twice-yearly maintenance inspection schedule.  The extended life and comfort of your home will be well worth the trouble of periodic home maintenance.