Though mankind has been erecting wooden buildings for millennia, we seem to learn mainly through hard experience . . . and open-to-the-weather, natural-finished wood decks are a comparatively new idea. They didn’t begin to replace traditional roofed entry stoops and porches till the concept of an “outdoor room” became popular during the postwar housing boom of the late 1940s and early 50s.

Lacking a porch’s roof and water-resistant painted finish, the wood of a deck is fully exposed to the elements. And it took a while for us to learn how to build and maintain a structure that has all of nature’s processes allied against it–the wood alternatively soaked and dried, frozen and sun-baked, assaulted by forces of wind and snow, hail, and acid rain, plus, on muddy days, battering from your youngsters’ Big Wheel. From nature’s perspective, deck lumber is nothing but dead wood to be recycled into forest mold, and the mold into plant nutrients to fuel new growth.

Woodpeckers, gnawing bugs, and mildews will attack it from the outside.  Termites and bark beetles and carpenter ants will bore in and tunnel through the inside, and whole legions of fungi, rot molds, and bacteria will infiltrate it. Together, they can convert a shiny new kiln-dried fir or spruce 2″ x 4″ x 8′ stud to a heap of sawdust in a very few years.

Some woods, however, produce toxic oils that repel insects and kill mold spores and bacteria, serving as pest deterrents for the living tree, and in lumber acting as natural preservatives. Bald cypress, California redwood, the white and red cedars, and a few others will last ten, perhaps fifteen years till the oils degrade or wash out. But cypress has been in short supply for decades. A generation ago, California redwood was plentiful, shipped nationwide, and relatively cheap, so most decks used it. Today, of course, standing cypress is preserved from logging; what little cypress lumber is available comes from old abandoned saw-logs being dredged from river bottoms where they sank 100 years ago–and it sells at antique-furniture prices. As we all know, the once vast redwood forests are being overcut.   Most of us wouldn’t buy fresh redwood even if we could afford it. Even eastern red and western white cedar has become so scarce of late that its price is as high as redwood.

With the cost of naturally decay/bug-resistant woods outtasight, most decks today are built of “PT”–common softwood lumber that’s been “pressure treated” with rot-proofing chemicals. If overhauled periodically, pressure-washed frequently, and treated annually with the latest exterior wood preservatives and waterproofing compounds, the wood in a modem PT deck can hold up against weather, bugs, rots, and molds indefinitely. Modern fasteners and fittings–such as deck screws and the joist hangers used to join the deck frame and beams (joists) that hold the planking–are also made to last of hot-galvanized steel or rustproof alloys that won’t “weep”–make those ugly dark streaks of corrosion you see streaming down the wood of so many decks and fences cobbled together with common nails or power-staples.

The latest plans and how-to books and videos incorporate rot- and pest-preventing measures learned over a half-century of practical experience. But, fair warning: the deck plans in the old how-to books you find in every library (and those still sold by some plan services) hark from the 40s, when decks were a novelty. Structure may be too weak to hold up or to satisfy building codes, and lumber/fastener specs will surely be out of date. Most importantly, the latest materials and techniques to guarantee long-term structural integrity and minimize water, rot, and insect damage will be missing entirely. If only to stay legal, be sure to have any construction plan pre-approved by your local building-permit authority. They will turn up serious structural deficiencies, but won’t mention the modern niceties that can add decades to your deck’s service life.

You will want to talk with your professional deck contractor about the latest weather preservation tactics for your new deck.  Make sure any articles you read are current so you can receive information on the latest products available.

To hide the entire space between an outdoor deck and ground, use skirting panels. Made with wood or composite boards, or with lattice panels, they help keep balls, pets, and other animals from getting under the deck. Lattice is available in both pressure-treated wood and vinyl. A solid skirt gives the deck a more massive, formal look, as if the deck were built on a founda­tion. Open lattice, either in a diamond or windowpane pattern, has a lighter feeling and allows ventilation (important in damp climates). Choosing to use no skirting panels will make the deck look as if it were floating—especially if you have cantilevered the joists and decking around the perimeter.  If you do opt for skirting, be sure to include one or more access doors to the space you’re enclosing.

Skirts and Skirting

Skirt or fascia boards are typically 1-inch-wide trim pieces that may be used to hide rough framing, such as header joists. You can paint them to match your house trim or finish them to match the decking or railings. Run skirt boards under overhanging deck boards, or cover decking edges and ends for a flush look. They should extend an inch or two lower than the framing they cover. As wood-to-wood contact promotes rot, apply pre­servative and use spacers to create an air space between skirt boards and joists. An air space is not necessary when using synthetic trim boards over pressure-treated wood.

There is no rule about screening off the underpinnings of your deck with lattice or other materials.  If you have the headroom but won’t be using the space for storage, the area can be left open.  This area can be used as a shady retreat during hot, sunny days.  Decks that are only a few feet off of the ground can be screened with different types of plants such as evergreen bushes.  Wisteria, juniper, climbing roses and other climbing plants can be planted around the perimeter of the deck for a complete look.  These types of plants are great for hiding the framing underneath the deck and can be trained to grow up lattice work or balustrades to give the deck a softer look.

Skirting on the underside of a deck doesn’t have to be made of lattice. Masonry, such as the brick shown here, offers a more substantial look.

Deck Skirting Choices
Choose a deck skirting that takes into the account the style of your house and garden. You probably have already thought of lattice skirting–it’s the most common type, and it usually looks good, either painted or stained. But you have many other choices in lattice, as well. Lattice comes ready-made in wood or vinyl, or you can make your own. It can mean extra work, but if you have an Arts & Crafts-style home, for example, you might want to make lattice in a square pattern, rather than buy lattice in the typical diamond pattern.

Vertical boards can be used to completely enclose the space, and these look good for small spaces, although if the deck floor is very high, it can look uninteresting. A variation of this is board-and-batten design, which gives a country look. The boards can be painted to match the house or stained. If you are into environment-friendly choices, the boards can be ordered to size from companies that recycle plastic for building materials. The downside to plank siding is that the space will hold more moisture than an open skirting.

Consider looking into fencing. Metal fences can be ordered to the size and shape you need. No wild animals will break through that, for sure. Any type of wire fencing can be painted and stapled to the deck framework. A visit to a building store or nursery should help you get ideas.

Bamboo is a novel idea and very attractive for a deck skirting for home styles ranging from country to contemporary. If under-deck security isn’t your priority, the more-easily-penetrated bamboo skirting, painted or stained, can give your home a beautiful look.
Skirting your deck will definitely be more costly, but it will turn out to be a highlight attribute which will significantly boost the entire appearance of your deck.

Contact Building Company Number 7 for a free quote on a new deck for your Nashville area home.

Aside from the obvious drawback of adding to the cost of the project, a bigger deck will require more mainte­nance, gobble up prime space for gar­dening and other activities, and make it harder to achieve a look that fits the style of your house. A large deck, for example, will make an average-size house look smaller; a small house is liable to be overwhelmed.

Whether your deck will comprise one activity area or several, plan care­fully so that you build only what you need. Make a list of all the ways you plan to use the deck, and determine approximately how much space you’ll need for each of them. Use your deck plan to map out likely locations for your activities. For a deck to accom­modate an eating area for six, a lounging area (that can double as a secondary eating area during larger gatherings), and a cooking area, you will need between 150 and 200 square feet.

Avoid built-ins that force you to use space in only one way—unless you’re sure you’re going to be using them a lot. For example, a permanent fire pit surrounded by built-in benches may seem like a wonderful idea, but unless you intend to use it more than a dozen times a year, you may want to consider using a portable fireplace and the chairs from your patio set instead.

A deck can be divided into separate areas for dining, lounging, grilling or even a garden potting area.

One-Room Decks

It’s often helpful to think of the various activity areas of a deck or yard as “rooms.” Decks, therefore, can have one or more rooms. Versatility is the operative word if you’re planning a one-room deck. If the space is small, opt for small-scale, lightweight furniture that doesn’t take up a lot of room and can be easily moved, folded, or stacked; a grill that can be moved easily in order to free up space for other activities; and wide stair treads that can double as seating. Multipurpose furniture, such as a bench that doubles as a table and has storage below, is worth considering. Hammocks can quickly turn a small deck into a napping place, but integrate the support posts into your design so that you won’t have to deal with a hammock stand.

If you need a large deck, plan on using planters, screens, and trellises to create cozy areas as you need them. Otherwise, big decks can feel unwelcoming when you want an outdoor break­fast for two. Canopies and gazebos can create a sense of enclosure as well.

Multiple-Room Decks

You might feel that some deck activities are mutually exclusive and need their own dedicated space. In such cases, you may want two or more “rooms” for your deck. You may not want to be beside the grill or dining table, for example, while you’re trying to sunbathe or use the spa. Similarly, an on-deck play area for children might be better separate from adult enter­tainment areas. Sometimes homeowners choose multiroom decks for needs other than space. For example, you may want to capture a view or take ad­vantage of a sunny exposure with your second deck room. Such decks often wrap around one or two corners of a house. Multiple rooms can be sepa­rated by changes in level, jogs in the footprint of your house, planters, trel­lises, privacy screens, and even drapes.

Choose a Shape

The design of your house and backyard are often the de­ciding factors when it comes to selecting a deck shape. In fact, it’s a good idea to start the process by deciding whether your deck is a “house deck” or a “yard deck.” In the first case, the deck is closer and more connected to the house, typically raised 4 feet or more. A yard deck is more connected to the landscape. It’s generally close to the ground and may incorporate planting beds and other natural features, such as trees and rocks. In gen­eral, house decks will look better if they echo the shape of the house, which in most cases is rectangular or square. Yard-oriented decks can take on more irregular or organic shapes. Curves and polygons tend to lend themselves to decks that are transitional, or somewhere in between house- and yard-oriented. Such shapes may also be useful when connecting a series of deck “rooms.”

Go Slow on Curves
There’s no question about it; curves are sexy. When it comes to decks, however, use caution. Curves are often expensive to produce and rarely relate to the architecture of a house. Bowed shapes off one side of a square or rec­tangular deck—especially when half-round windows are present—are an exception. Gentle curves also fit right in when there are natural curves in the landscape, such as round tree crowns, glacial boulders, or the edge of a pond. Curved deck shapes can also help integrate a ground-level deck with a hilly terrain.

You will want your deck to fit with your lifestyle, the neighborhood and environment.  Plan to build an outdoor deck size that will be in proportion to the rest of the house.

At one time, people simply built a functional square deck and they would also build a square wooden railing for the deck. However, people in the new millennium are utilizing almost every imaginable type of product available to encompass the edge of their deck and they are savoring the differences.  Glass railings for decks are one of the new materials that a home owner may want to consider.

From wooden to plastic from metal to glass, each material tends to make your deck appear just a little bit different from everyone else’s. It is a wise decision for you to select your deck railing before or during the development stage of construction. More and more glass deck railing options have become a favorite and easy to maintain selection.

Why select glass you may ask? Glass railings for decks can be quite a stunning add-on to any kind of house regardless of whether  there is already a large amount of glass present in your house or not.  The glass railing will stand out as the highlight to focus on. Even so, together with any material choice, you will find both advantages and disadvantages to glass railings for decks.

The Advantages

Affordable and obtainable almost everywhere, glass deck rails can easily end up being an incredible add-on to your deck for several reasons. If you have small youngsters, the rails permit the children to see out and about, while still holding them safely within the deck area.  This may well end up being an advantage for your friends and visitors as well, since the children can easily glance out over the scenery of your deck.

There is yet another advantage to glass railings if you have small children. The shortage of between the sections means your little one will not try to jam placing us or their little heads somewhere between the panels.

If you have a view of the lake, mountains, cityscape, incredible backyard garden area or a special wooded area, glass might be the only approach to keeping your view pristine.

A good glass railing can also be an enormous wind breaker, which is one reason that many people that live on lakes choose to have them. It is usually required that you leave a bit of space between the panels so that the wind can move through them, but all in all, they make a pretty good windbreaker.

You can also produce a modern décor theme by placing a wood railing on top of the glass railing. Not only will this give your rail a traditional a contemporary appearance, but it is also a convenient location for sitting beverages and other items on top of.

The Disadvantages

There are few disadvantages to owning a deck rail crafted with glass. The first disadvantage is that they may need to have additional washing in comparison to wood. Especially, if you have puppies or small kids that want to put their small paws or fingers on the glass. Dogs might also be puzzled in the beginning and possibly attempt to step through the glass. But like a glass patio door they will discover that they can’t.

Breakage is an additional factor that quite a few property owners are anxious about. Thankfully, the majority of glass deck rails are constructed of tempered glass, which is relatively strong. This does not, however, imply that it is indestructible, and you may have to be more cautious on your deck with the glass rails than you would have to be if you had wooden rails.

Don’t throw stones at a house with glass railings.

Glass can also result in a greenhouse effect. If it is facing a very sun-drenched area, it can become quite warm. This is where it is a good idea to plan and check the area your glass deck railings will be facing. You can make sure there is an air flow through one side of your plan.

In Summary

Glass railings for decks are the perfect solution for not blocking a beautiful view. They can add safety for children and pets. They can also serve as an excellent windbreaker.

If you are constructing or adding onto a porch or deck you may want to look at all the options for your rails as they can help to make your deck something for all to remember.

Decks can improve how you navigate your yard by serving as both deck and path. A deck that wraps around the cor­ner of a house may be used to connect a back door and a garage, or even a front and back door. Deck paths can lead guests to an attractive view or garden bed. They’re also great for joining the house with outbuildings, such as attached garages, gazebos, pool houses, and greenhouses.

A deck is often conveniently located off of or near the kitchen but is supposed to be designed to be out of the way of traffic.  Sometimes a homeowner will section off a portion of the outdoor deck to be a screened in porch.  This arrangement ensures lovely summer evening meals that are free from mosquitoes and other pesky flying insects.

Deck traffic can be facilitated by positioning the screened in porch with a corridor between the porch and the railings to be out of the way of normal deck traffic.

Be generous when sizing the main traffic “corridors” of your deck by allowing at least 4 feet so that the traffic lanes can accommodate two people walking abreast. Allow at least 4 feet around activity areas where people will circulate, such as a dining or conversation area. Locate potentially hazardous activity areas away from traf­fic corridors. For example, put the cooking area where people will not have to pass close by to get somewhere else. Ditto for tripping hazards, such as steps, and cutouts for ponds, spas, trees, or through-deck gardens. If your deck is small, use items such as benches, planters, and trellises to define traffic paths. A small counter, for exam­ple, may be all you need to force kids to walk around a grilling area rather than through it.  A bench that is built around a through-deck planter will prevent visitors from stepping off of the edge.

Lessen Visibility of Stairs

Stair placement goes along with traffic patterns and is key is designing a useful deck, keeping in mind paths from the door to the stairs, it always best to keep areas for seating clear of pathways from the door to the stairs. Stair placement, Traffic paths, furniture placement are all key in determining how much space in necessary and how big a deck to build.

Most designers recommend stairs with a minimum 3-foot width and that you treat the handrail the same as you’ve treated the guardrail. With long stairs, this may create too much visual clut­ter, so you may want to use a less visible metal handrail system. Painted black or white, depending on the background, such handrails almost disappear from a distance.

Steps for a deck built less than 2 feet above ground level are relatively easy to build, usually requiring no railing or anchors to the ground. Loads imposed on stairs are carried by treads that span descending boards called stringers, usually 2-by-12s. The top of the steps is fastened to the deck; the bottom rests on a concrete slab.

A deck that rises 8 or more feet above the ground shares much with similar structures built nearer the ground.

However, these taller structures require additional rigidity. Some comes from thicker, stiffer posts at the outer edge of the deck, the rest from a piece of lumber called a ledger board. Fastened directly to the house, the ledger board al­lows the deck to borrow strength from the larger structure.

• Stairs that are adjacent to an exterior wall will be less intrusive than those that reach into the yard.

• For a period-style house with bold detailing, you may want the railings to stand out.

• The stairs to a Victorian-influenced deck could be discreetly tucked away to either side of the deck, keeping the rear elevation of the house visually unencumbered.

• Spiral stairs are a compact way to con­nect a second-story deck with the yard.

• Fill the space where stairs turn with planters, and use benches in place of guardrails where allowed by code.

• A handrail without cable or balusters is permissible against a wall but not along a stairs’ open side.

• A stairs’ handrail is subject to many of the same code restrictions as a deck guardrail, including a maximum 4-in. opening between balusters.

Consider traffic patterns, where are the entries to the deck, doors from house, stair placements, actually the placement of the stairs can be critical to a good design and of course can affect the size necessary of the deck. Also very important to consider traffic patterns around the deck, by making the deck that extra few feet bigger does it make it near impossible to get a mower around the deck?, do you now have to go up and down the deck just to get from one side of the yard to the other?

Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.

Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.

Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.

Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitrans­parent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formu­las are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.

Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and mois­ture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will even­tually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip re­sistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.

Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in com­bination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.

Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.

Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.

Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish.  A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.

Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.

Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.

Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.

Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.

Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitrans­parent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formu­las are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.

Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and mois­ture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will even­tually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip re­sistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.

Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in com­bination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.

Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.

Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.

Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish (page 184). A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.

Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.

Consider the Unusual Deck

An entry deck, with the addition of trellises for privacy, may provide the tradi­tional front-porch feel you’ve always wanted. Adding a master suite above the garage⁷ Build a balcony to the front or back, or wrap it around three sides. A pocket deck off a first-level bathroom, enveloped with green­ery, might just become a perfect retreat for when you need to take a break from the mad rush of daily life.

Equip it with an outdoor shower, and you’ll come to know what luxury really means.

The Right Height Deck

In many situations, though not all, you will have some flexi­bility as to how high you build your deck. A first-level deck, for example, can go anywhere from a few inches above ground level to a few inches below the level of the interior floor. The height of a second-level deck may be more lim­ited. There are existing windows above and below as well as door placement to consider. No matter where you’re plan­ning to put your deck, the general guideline is to build it as low as you can. Doing so will make it less complex to build, safer to use, less costly, less likely to interfere with views from windows and patio doors, easier to make private, and more likely to blend with the house and yard. It will also take up less of your yard with space-consuming stairs. If you do want an upper-story deck, make it as small as you can while still meeting your needs. Doing so will make it easier to fit with the style of your home and won’t put the lower floor in per­petual shadow. 

Cut Cooling Bills with a Deck

A south-facing elevated deck (on a second or third level] can be an energy-saver. In the summer, with the sun at a high trajec­tory, the deck will shade windows and doors and keep the lower level cool. In the winter, when the sun crosses the southern sky at a lower angle, south-facing windows and patio doors on the level below the deck will receive the sun and its warmth. Such a deck should not be built too deep—about 6 feet in most locations works well.

Maximize Your Best Views with Your New Deck

Where you place your deck will largely determine your view. Off a second or third floor, it will be expansive. Nearer to the ground, you’ll have a better vantage of your yard and garden, but not much else. Unless you have some­thing special to look at though, opt for the latter for the reasons already mentioned (cost, ease of construction, safety, privacy, etc.). If you do have a great view, make the most of it and locate your deck accordingly. If your view is mixed, block out the eyesore with a well-placed fence (built on the deck) or trellis. Trees, hedges, and shrubs can also detract or hide what you’d rather not look at.

Ensure Privacy with Deck Placement

Deck placement will also affect your privacy. Once again, keep your deck’s height low if you can. It will eliminate most privacy problems or make them a lot easier to solve. If you do find that your preferred deck location is in view of your neighbors, trellises, deck-top fences, and plantings can help. A solid guardrail, especially for a raised deck, can also create the privacy you require. When creating privacy with a fence or plantings, take care not to inadvertently block a view which your neighbor may value (of a lake, for instance).  If you have no choice, install a privacy screen that can be removed or rolled up when your deck is not in use.  Outdoor curtains, made with a weather-resist­ant fabric, are also a gracious solution.

Use Natural Assets for Your Deck Whenever Possible

Rough, steep, or uneven terrain in a backyard is normally a liability. When designing a deck, however, you may be able to turn it to your advantage. A moderately sloping site may be a natural for a multilevel deck that steps down (or up) the incline. With a steep slope, a deck may be your only way to have a bit of backyard—and the view is likely to be interesting. Large rock outcroppings or boulders provide natural focal points for your deck project and should also be considered an asset that is worked into the design. Trees are often allowed to penetrate decks, but this can be a tricky detail.  Yes, some homeowners actually build their deck around a favorite tree or two.  It is something your guests will always remember but you will want to consult with your deck contractor first.

New tongue-and-groove synthetic decking looks like the nar­row wood planks often used for porch floors, but it can withstand the elements with little maintenance. It’s particularly important with pe­riod homes to keep the deck in the scale of the house. Some designers suggest that the deck shouldn’t be bigger than the biggest room in the house.

Finally, work hard to integrate architectural elements from the house into the deck. Borrow from the profiles of existing columns when choosing balusters; pick up fluting details from columns, and use them on deck posts; mimic the width of fascias and pilasters. Look to your home’s water table (boards installed below siding on some older homes) for ideas on how to trim out the perimeter of your deck.

Custom Deck Guardrails for Older Homes

If your home is architecturally distinctive, consider installing a custom guardrail that echoes an existing architectural element, such as flared siding or existing work, and if your house’s architecture is not unusual, you may want to consider a custom guardrail. For example, ranches really have a horizontal look that merges well with garages and landscaping. To retain this quality, you may choose a solid guardrail or one with an open grid rather n using the traditional vertical balusters. Wrought iron steel balustrades with serpentine, curved, or concentric designs can be just the touch to dress up a raised ranch. Keep in mind that custom work will add to the job’s cost. Working through a local fabricator or mill to cut or bend repetitive components may be cheaper (and better) than cutting materials on site.

Railing Kits and Systems

Nowadays, handrail and guardrail systems are a great way to add panache to what would otherwise be an ordinary deck. Manufacturers—particularly those of synthetic deck­ing materials—have responded to consumers’ growing de­sire for distinctive railings by creating easy-to-install railing kits. Some systems are as simple as a stack of bowed-steel balusters and a spacing tool to ease installation. Others offer preassembled balustrade panels that you cut to length and snap between specially extruded rails. Some builders mix and match, using preassembled balustrade sections set into conventionally framed wood posts and rails. For a lighter, contemporary look—and one that’s less likely to block your view—consider guardrails made with stainless-steel cable or rods, tempered glass, or aluminum. Make sure they meet building codes in your area before you make your purchase.

Skirts and Skirting

Skirt or fascia boards are typically 1-inch-wide trim pieces that may be used to hide rough framing, such as header joists. You can paint them to match your house trim or finish them to match the decking or railings. Run skirt boards under overhanging deck boards, or cover decking edges and ends for a flush look. They should extend an inch or two lower than the framing they cover. As wood-to-wood contact promotes rot, apply pre­servative and use spacers to create an air space between skirt boards and joists. An air space is not necessary when using synthetic trim boards over pressure-treated wood.

To hide the entire space between deck and ground, use skirting panels. Made with wood or composite boards, or with lattice panels, they help keep balls, pets, and other animals from getting under the deck. Lattice is available in both pressure-treated wood and vinyl. A solid skirt gives the deck a more massive, formal look, as if the deck were built on a founda­tion. Open lattice, either in a diamond or windowpane pattern, has a lighter feeling and allows ventilation (important in damp climates). Choosing to use no skirting panels will make the deck look as if it were floating—especially if you have cantilevered the joists and decking around the perimeter.  If you do opt for skirting, be sure to include one or more access doors to the space you’re enclosing.

The location of most decks will often be determined by the interior room (or rooms) you want to connect it to. For an outdoor deck used to cook and serve meals, connecting to the kitchen or dining room is imperative. For sun­bathing and spa splashing, locate your deck off a family room, basement room, or spare bedroom. There are plenty of possibilities for locating ele­vated decks as well, including bed­rooms, bathrooms, over-the-garage recreation rooms, and hallways.

Other site considerations include the style of your home’s exterior. The best location for a deck may be trumped because it will destroy a key feature of your home. Or, the best site may be too expensive to build on be­cause of uneven or unstable terrain. Exposure to sun and wind are also important considerations, although they can be mitigated by careful plan­ning. Finally, call all utilities to learn the locations of buried water, gas, sewer, and electric lines.

The Importance of Weather Exposure on a Deck

Assuming you have more than one option for where to build your deck, exposure to the sun may be the deciding factor. Sun exposure is determined by the proposed deck’s orientation to the sun’s daily path. A south-facing deck will receive sun almost all day. East- and west-facing decks get sun in the morning and afternoon, respectively. Southeast­er southwest-facing decks will receive the sun for longer periods than decks that face due east or west. North-facing decks, unless extended beyond the shadow of your house, will receive little or no sun for much of the day.

To decide what’s best for you, think about when you’ll be using your deck. If it’s for your morning coffee, south­east- or east-facing may be your preference. An afternoon and evening user would probably prefer a southwest- or west-facing deck. If you live in a climate where summers are cool, perhaps south-facing is the ideal orientation. Conversely, if you live where it’s warm most of the time, a northern exposure may suit you.

Of course, you will need to take into account the shade thrown by nearby trees and buildings. Keep in mind that you can always create shade by planting trees or adding an overhead shade structure, such as a pergola or gazebo. Also note that you can wrap your deck around two sides of your house to take advantage of both sun and shade.

In many locations, wind is another factor to consider. If you live in a cool climate where the prevailing wind is fre­quently gusty, opt for the protected side of your house to increase the time you can spend on your deck. If that’s not possible, you can build a wind screen. If you live in a hot climate, the breeze may bring welcome re­lief from the heat.

Fit the Deck to Your Floor Plan

In addition to creating outdoor living space for you, your family, and your guests, a good deck design can improve your home’s floor plan. For example, a deck can extend the area of a small room, such as a bedroom or dining room. It can also connect two areas of the home, improving traffic flow from one part of the house to another. Decks are often used to join a kitchen and family room. Multilevel decks can connect an upper level of your home to a lower level or to the yard. Wraparound decks can connect two parts of both your house and yard, which is especially useful when the terrain around your home is rough. Your design can also allow for an entirely new room, such as an outdoor en­tertainment area or a secluded retreat.

Locate Hidden Obstacles in an Outdoor Deck

Check out the location of everything on your property that is near the planned construction site. Chances are, the outdoor deck will limit access to, or interfere with, at least one of them. It’s common, for example, to have exterior spigots end up below deck level. You can either relocate them or build a small trap door for access. Also, do not plan to build near a septic tank. Setbacks of 15 to 20 feet are usually required. Other in-ground obstacles may include buried water piping, electrical lines to the garage or pool, gas lines to the barbecue, sump pump and rainwater drains, basement doors, and buried oil tanks.

A good contractor will help you with these details when planning and designing your outdoor deck. These details will ensure that you will enjoy outdoor living to its fullest for many years to come.