What is it about outdoor wooden decks that appeal to American homeowners? Being off the ground, away from grass and bugs? Americans like to have a place for the barbecue grill that’s convenient to the house, comfortable and removed from the lawn. Plus, decks are a favorite spot for sunning and outdoor entertaining.  Outdoor kitchens are the latest must have addition for deck and patio owners

About 1.5 million decks are built or remodeled each year, according to the National Association of Home Builders. The average life of a typical outdoor can be expanded to many years with proper care.   Outdoor wooden Decks are not only found in the Sun Belt and the West, where they can be used year-round, but also in northern states where they can be used for just a few months a year.

In a recent survey conducted by NAHB on consumer preferences, 83 percent of potential new home buyers surveyed said they would like their new home to have a wooden deck off the back of the house, including 29 percent who said a deck was “essential.” Just 4 percent said they did not want a deck.

Outdoor decks are offered as an option by home builders on most new homes. Typically, they’re a standard item only in luxury homes.

According to NAHB, when people buy a new home, one of the first projects they want to undertake is adding a deck. About one-third of new homeowners consider themselves handy enough to tackle the job themselves, the other two-thirds have the deck built professionally. .

Over the past couple of decades, the design of decks has changed significantly. Outdoor decks were a simple rectangle or square with no extras. Today’s decks come in all shapes and sizes and typically include benches, planter boxes and posts for hanging baskets of flowers.

Most wooden decks are built off the rear of the house. However, there is an emerging trend of putting the deck in the front of the home, especially by homeowners who live on culde-sacs. In the front of the house, the deck acts more like a front porch.

With all of the advantages and conveniences offered by a deck, and the fact that help is as close as the yellow pages of your telephone book, it’s no surprise that wooden decks are one of homeowners’ most desired amenities.

A deck forms a sort of halfway house between indoors and out, a perch where you can sip your coffee and enjoy the birds or the garden–without having to remove your slippers. Very few home improvement projects give you more pleasure for your buck.

There are two keys to a long-lasting deck: It must be structurally sound, and it must be designed so that it drains water. Both issues are matters of proper construction methods. Even if you’re hiring a builder to do the job, understanding proper deck construction will make you a wiser consumer.

Specialty outdoor wooden decks may be built for such things as a swimming pool, above ground swimming pool, hot tubs, multi-level decks.  The cardinal rule is to have the outdoor wooden deck blend with the current surroundings.  This was a lesson in architecture that was introduced by Frank Lloyd Wright.  In other words, if you live in Tennessee, consider having a deck built with a rustic theme.  If you are surrounded by pine trees, consider using treated pine as your deck material.  If you live on a lake or fishing stream, take advantage of the view.  

This homeowner’s guide to cabinetry is designed to teach some of the basics. Covered in this guide are some of the most common material choices for cabinets, tips on cleaning and caring for cabinets and a brief exploration of cabinet refinishing rather than outright replacement. Because cabinets can be an expensive home improvement job, some homeowners find it more cost effective to refinish the cabinets they already have. In most cases, refinishing is a viable option, after making a few considerations.

Cabinetry Materials
Cabinets are made out of wood, with maple, oak, cherry, birch, and hickory being the most common woods. Some styles of cabinet are coated with a material like Thermofoil, which adds durability to wood and makes it easier to clean. Maple is a bright wood, a good choice for a light, airy workspace like the kitchen. Of course, maple can be finished darker to give it a deeper tone. Oak is a timeless classic wood that compliments its surroundings with warmth and depth. Cherry is an elegant hardwood with lovely natural hues. Cherry mellows with age into a darker formal tone. Birch is a versatile wood that can compliment the sparse class of an urban loft or blend with the simple rustic feel of a country cottage. With the right stain, birch can achieve nearly any look. Hickory is a unique and strong wood with natural color variations than can enhance the warmth and welcome of any kitchen. Depending on the tone of the stain, hickory can take on a natural rugged appearance or be imbued with the deep rich wood tones of a family mansion. Also, woods like oak and birch are available in a more rustic style of cut called quatersawn. Quartersawn oak and birch is cut in such a way to reveal the wood grain in a more country aesthetic.

Caring for Cabinetry
Fresh cabinetry entails a lot of carpentry work, hence some dust. Once new cabinets are installed, dust all the exterior by wiping with a damp cloth. Dust a little bit of the cabinetry at a time, letting it dry before moving on to the next section. Find a wood cleaner or polish that is free of wax, silicone and petroleum solvents. These chemicals can create unwanted wax buildup or deteriorate the cabinets’ finish. Murphy’s Oil Soap is an excellent choice for wooden cabinets, both old and new. It builds up a deep shine while cleaning and protecting the wood. Do not use a kitchen dish cloth to wipe down or clean the cabinet exteriors. Dish cloths often contain remnants of detergents or grease that can damage or spot the finish. For daily care, be sure to wipe up spills and water as soon as they happen, particularly around the sink. Do not drape wet towels or dish cloths over cabinet doors to dry. Over time, drying towels and rags this way can lead to water stains on the cabinet doors. Also, avoid the excessive heat of self-cleaning appliances like ovens and dishwashers. Drastic or rapid heating and cooling of cabinet exteriors can lead to warping of the wood.

Refinishing
Many homeowners need new cabinetry but can not afford the entire process. Refinishing existing cabinets is a fantastic alternative to ripping out the old ones and rebuilding. Refinishing cabinets is much faster and less expensive than installing new cabinetry. Old cabinets are removed, their old finish is sanded off, including the removal of minor damages and spots, then the cabinets are resealed and stained before being freshly reinstalled. Refinishing cabinets gives the homeowner a lot of style choices, too. A new stain alone, for example, darker or lighter, can transform the tone of the entire room. Take note: Before starting a refinishing job, be sure to examine the interior of your cabinets, particularly the cabinet floors, which can be prone to rotting. If the cabinet interiors are in a bad way, refinishing is not a good option. It will be necessary to install new cabinets.

A homeowner that suspects it is time to install a new roof needs to be sure. In this homeowner’s guide to residential roofing, you will learn some of the basic symptoms of a roof in need of replacement. Followed by that will be a brief outline of the work necessary to properly install a new roof, including the extensive preparations. Also covered are some of the roofing features available like a drip edge and an ice shield. Let’s get to it.

How do you know if it’s time for a new roof?
If your roof is leaking it will be obvious. Stains on the ceiling inside are a tell tale sign. Sometimes, though, a leak in the roof can be repaired locally without the entire roof being replaced. For the big picture, look for a combination of factors including the following:

*Algae growth – Airborne algae produce a dark discoloration on the roof that resembles soot or dirt.

*Curling, blistering, or missing shingles – These can be caused by moisture, poor workmanship, or high winds.

*Damaged flashing – This is caused by drying or cracking on an old roof, improper nailing, or settling of the home over time.

*Buckling – Buckling can happen when the house settles, if new shingles are applied over old ones, or because of poor workmanship. Poor workmanship includes improperly applied felt, wrinkeld underlayment, or lack of spacers between the roof deck and boards.

*Missing granules – Granules naturally wear off of shingles, but if there are so many loose granules that they are filling up your gutters or if the mat underneath is exposed, then your shingles have officially gotten too old.

*Signs of rot – This is more common in organic base shingles. Consider replacing with fiberglass shingles to avoid rot.

What does it take to install a new roof?
A good roofing crew will have a system in place when you order your new roof, including preparation. Without undergoing significant preparation, a homeowner risks the integrity of their new roof. If a roof is poorly prepared, it will quickly develop crack, holes, and eventually leaks.

Typically, the team will take up most of your yard, laying out the new roofing materials. Also they usually pull a dump truck up to the side of the house to throw in all of the old roof detritus that will be torn off and trashed. If you cringe at the thought of a heavy dump truck crushing your lawn, ask your roofer about a new technology called Mr. Buggy, which is a great dump truck alternative. The team will remove all the old shingles and pull out the old nails. At this stage it is time to replace or secure the roof boards. Each roof board should be inspected individually to ensure the future integrity of the new roof.

All debris must be removed from the roof at this point, because demolition will be over. It will be time to begin the actual installation portion of the roofing project. Next the team must install an aluminum drip edge along the eaves of the roof using galvanized nails to prevent rust. After the drip edge, it is wise but not necessary to install an adhesive ice and water sheild. This can be expensive but it is well worth it in wet or cold climates. Some states’ building codes require the ice and water shield, so do your homework.

Then the team will entirely cover the roof area with felt or roofing paper in overlapping rows from the bottom up, fastening it down with roofing tacks. Finally the new shingles are attached, from the bottom corner of the roof up to the very top. Any hips and valleys are overlapped, using a herringbone technique.

It’s over now. Congratulations!

Roofing is arduous work, requiring lots of manpower, that is best handled by professionals. Roofing requires a significant amount of demolition and preparation before the familiar shingles or shake are fastened down. It sounds simple here, but it takes days, and it is a very dirty and labor intensive job. The good news is that when the roof is done, it looks so ordered, fresh and beautiful that the whole house seems to smile to be wearing a new top. And as a homeowner, you are allowed decades of cozy security under a healthy new roof.

Inspecting your attic includes making sure there is enough clearance to create a livable space up there. Inspect the ceiling joists and framing to make sure they are structurally sound. The ceiling joists are the wooden beams you have to stand on when you go up into your attic. These will become the support for any flooring you install in the attic. The ceiling joists must be a minimum of 2″ by 6″. If the joists are any smaller, they will not support the weight of the remodeled attic and it will crash down onto the rest of the home.

Make sure there is enough space to renovate the attic. Eight feet of clearance from the joists to the roof is a minimum standard. Also, depending on the pitch of the roof, the roof itself needs to be a certain width to justify the renovation. If the pitch of the roof is 1/2, then the roof needs to be at least 40 feet wide. If the pitch is 2/3, the roof needs to be 32 feet across. A 5/6 pitch requires a roof at least 24 feet wide for a satisfactory attic renovation.

Next, have an electrician inspect your home’s wiring to establish if your current electrical system can handle the load of an additional livable room, accounting for all the lighting and appliances you will add to the renovated attic.

Also, look for any leaks or damage in the roof that will need to be fixed during the renovation. Once finished with the initial inspection, it will be time to formulate a plan.

Once you have preformed the initial assessment on your attic, you will be able to decide for sure if you are going to renovate. If your attic is a good candidate for remodeling, your renovation plan needs to include some essential points. These essential points are: access, HVAC, flooring, and light.

Access
Most attics are accessed through a fold down lumber stairway or a ladder through a trap door. At best, the attic is reached by a cramped staircase that does not allow for normal foot traffic. Your renovation plan must make allowance, both spatially and economically, for a standard staircase from the living space in your home up to the proposed living space in your attic. Study your local building codes concerning egress in living spaces. For example, your renovated attic will need to have at least one window installed that will act as a fire escape.

HVAC
HVAC is an industry acronym that stands for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. Attics are typically heavily insulated for the sake of the entire home’s energy conservation. This mean attics are very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Your renovation plan must account for these unique temperature ranges in the new attic. Your homes HVAC system will need to be expanded to accommodate and appropriately ventilate your remodeled attic.

Flooring
Since the majority of attics do not have a real floor, one will have to be installed. The “floor” of most unrenovated attics consists of nothing but the tops of the ceiling joists of the room below, usually with insulation laid down between the joists. If your attic is being used for storage, you likely have random boards laid across the joists for places to step and keep boxes of Christmas decorations and whatnot. Think about what kind of flooring you will use in your new attic. Make sure flooring is both glued down and thoroughly secured with fastening hardware to prevent squeaking down the line. Carpet is a good flooring option for attics, because it insulates and dampens sound. But carpet must be reinforced with high quality carpet padding and a secure base flooring.

Light
Attics are dark places. When renovating your attic draw up plans for adequate lighting. Electrical lighting is not your only option. If you install a skylight or dormers, the attic will be flooded with beautiful quantities of natural light during the day. Since the space is small relative to the rest of the home, paint the walls a light color to reflect illumination and help the natural light fill the room more effectively.

In the end, an attic renovation can be a wonderful thing. What matters most before beginning an attic renovation plan is adequate preparation. Find a reputable contractor that is willing to answer your questions. Inspect your attic for basic structural integrity and minimum clearance. Then work with a contractor and a design team to draw up a sound attic remodeling plan. Before you know it, you’ll be playing billiards in your new attic hobby room. Good luck!

A remodeled basement can drastically increase the amount of livable space inside of a home. A properly remodeled basement can serve any number of functions from a recreation room, laundry room, guest room, home theater, or even your own personalized sports bar. Why take a cab home from the local pub when you can just take the stairs?

Walls
Most basements have bare concrete or cinder block walls. You will need to finish the basement walls with a material of your choosing. Walls are a necessity for many reasons. Walls over the default brickwork create a more natural look to the new basement, covering exposed wiring, water pipes, and joists. Walls also provide much needed insulation. Moreover, walls create spaces to install electrical outlets, which will be a legal and practical necessity regardless of the planned usage.

Lighting
Typical basements come with very little lighting, often little more than a bare bulb with a string switch. Bear in mind, your new basement will be need to be better lit than the rest of your home, because of the absence of natural light. Lighting can be maximized by strategically adding windows or mirrored surfaces to your basement remodel plan.

Flooring
The poured concrete floor of your current basement will not do. The pores in concrete draw loads of moisture into the basement. Consider the many choices of floor coverings available for your basement. Carpet and hardwood are not recommended because they will react poorly to the moisture in the basement. Vinyl, stone and laminate flooring are better choices because they are resistant to moisture and they are easy to heat. It is wise to install electric floor heating in your renovated basement to combat the high moisture levels.

This list is not exhaustive by any means, but you cannot successfully renovate your basement without these basic considerations. Now that you are equipped with information, it’s time to do some homework. Find a reliable local contractor with a design team and ask some questions. Learn about your local building codes to see what you will have to do during the course of your project to make your basement safe and sound in the eyes of the law. Before you know it, you will be ready to get started. With the right design team, you can turn what was once an auxillary storage space into a cozy and inviting human habitat.

If you decide to remodel your basement, be sure to do the proper planning and preparing. When a home is originally erected, the basement is never intended to be a functional living space. To make it so, the designer will have to make some significant modifications to ward against darkness, moisture and cold. But if approached by a knowledgeable designer, making a basement livable is a welcome and rewarding challenge.

This brief basement remodeling guide will outline some of the essential considerations a homeowner must make before beginning a basement remodeling project. Once you are acquainted with some of the major obstacles in front of you, you will be better equipped to begin planning your basement remodel. Five essential considerations to make when assessing your basement are: moisture, usage, walls, lighting, and flooring.

Moisture
Moisture is the make-or-break factor of a basement. By virtue of being underground, all basements collect moisture. Some basements collect so much moisture that renovation is impractical or impossible. Examine your basement for significant moisture. Significant moisture means that water is actually pooling and/or dripping into your basement. If your basement is too moist, it is not a candidate for renovation and you can save yourself a lot of time by quitting while you are ahead and looking into that ground level addition project.

Usage
What do you want to use your new basement for? This is one of the most fun parts of a project. Pre-visualize the basement as it would appear after the remodel. Are you interested in building a home theater? If so, how many seats and where will you put them? Do you need a play room for the kids so you can have a little more peace and quiet upstairs? The way you choose to use the new basement will have the most affect on any subsequent design decisions. For example, if you include a guest room in your basement plan, building codes require that you equip the basement with an new exit in addition to the door that leads back into the home.

Types of Lighting

When thinking of lighting, it is helpful to break it down into three categories: general lighting, accent lighting, and task lighting. General lighting is also called ambient lighting. It is the typical level of brightness needed to get around the house without bumping into things. General lighting is used to substitute for daylight. The overhead lighting in the living room, the chandelier in a dining room, basic garage lighting, and the porch light are all examples of general lighting.

Accent is quite the opposite of general lighting. It is illumination that acts as an element of decoration and interior design. Accent lighting is directed toward a very particular element in a room, like a tapestry or a uniquely textured wall. Another example is spotlights on wall art or sculptures. Any illumination that highlights points of interest, like family photos, houseplants, or even outdoor landscaping, falls in the accent lighting category. Like the name suggests, accent lighting needs to be at least twice as bright as the surrounding light. Track lights and some wall mounted fixtures are common examples of accent lighting.

Task lighting is for specific jobs performed in the home. Task lighting must bright enough to avoid eye strain and be free of shadows and glare. Task lighting is the illumination over a workbench in the shed or it can be a reading lamp in the den. Other common instances of task lighting are under-cabinet lights in the kitchen workspace and portable lamps that facilitate hobbies, games, and office work. It can also be achieved through recessed lights and judiciously arranged track lights with the proper lighting controls installed.
Controls
Lighting controls are an essential part of any residential lighting plan. Over the years, technological advances have made impressive improvements to the scope and flexibility of lighting controls. Whereas lighting controls used to simply be an on/off switch, these days there are numerous forms of dimmers, from manual slide dimmers to fully computerized touch dimmers. Not only does lighting control offer an unprecedented amount of control over the illumination in the home, it also serves to increase bulb life and conserve energy.

Furthermore, the right state-of-the-art lighting controls allow you to alter lighting to match the current activity in a room, whether playing a game with the kids or watching a movie. With today’s computerized dimming systems, it is even possible to create and save preset lighting templates. This way, with the touch of a button on a remote control, a room can be lit for a holiday party, a modest family visit, or some quiet reading time alone.

Lighting for Different Rooms

The various rooms of a home have specialized purposes. The lighting you install in each room should complement the purpose and uses of the room. Living rooms, dining rooms, and kitchens all need their own personalized lighting treatment.

Living room lighting needs the most versatility of all the rooms. Living rooms are host to a wide variety of activities, from entertaining guests to family meetings, recreation and play time. A well lit living room will incorporate all three forms of lighting – general, accent, and task. This way, you can show off some art, do a little reading, and enjoy quality time with your friends and family. Dimming controls are a must for the living room.
Dining rooms require functionality on par with living rooms, but beauty is essential, to complement the ancient ritual of dining together. Typical dining room lighting is achieved by a centerpiece chandelier with a dimmer control. Chandeliers provide a great opportunity to beautify a dining room. When dimmed, chandeliers can closely approximate candlelight. Additionally, when a chandelier is turned up, it is an excellent source of task lighting, for tasks such as homework and sorting bills.

Kitchens are the most intensive workspace in the home. Prevalent general lighting and task lighting are the rule of thumb for any kitchen. At the same time, kitchens inadvertently become one of the busiest gathering spots for family and friends. No matter how appealing the living room is, parties frequently move to the kitchen. For this reason, lighting in kitchens needs to be imaginative. Recessed overhead lights are great, but do not neglect the beauty and functionality of under-cabinet lighting for a functional accent.

This has been a brief primer to residential lighting. As you do more research, make a list of the rooms in your home that need lighting changes. Do you need less shadow in your bathroom? Have you considered the task lighting needs of your home office? With this information, you are equipped to do research and find lighting professionals that will help you implement the best possible lighting plan for your home.

• Tape measure
• Level
• Tile cutter
• Tile nippers/tile saw
• Safety glasses 
• Notched trowel
• Rubber grout float

Materials

• Waterproof mastic tile adhesive
• Waterproof grout
• Glazed wall tiles
• Latex gloves
• Tile

TIP:  It’s always a good idea to have spare tiles of the same dye lot in case you break some or have to replace one in the future. If you can’t get the same dye lot, mix all of the tiles together so the color difference won’t be as noticeable.

Estimating the Amount of Tile Needed

Once you’ve designed your backsplash, measure the length of all your countertops where the backsplash will go. Then measure the height of your backsplash whether it’s four inches, full height or somewhere in between. Multiply the two numbers together to get the square footage of the area you need to cover. This will be the first question they ask you at any tile store.

 1. Prepare the wall
• If there’s old tile, wallpaper or paneling, remove it. You need to apply the tile to a smooth, clean surface of either plaster or gypsum board. Scrape off any loose paint. Remove all the switch plates and outlet covers from the backsplash.
• Measure and mark the exact center of the room’s visual focal point at the counter level.
• Using a sharp pencil and a 2-foot level, draw a perfectly plumb starting line through the center mark. 

2. Apply mastic or thinset
• Scoop some tile mastic or thinset out of the bucket with the edge of the V-notched trowel.
• Holding the trowel to its long edge, use a sweeping motion to spread the mastic across the wall, covering only an area large enough for eight tiles.
• Look for any bare spots and fill them in with mastic.

TIP: Check with the tile dealer to make certain you’re using a trowel with the correct-width notches for your mastic.

 3.  Set the field tile
• Start setting the tiles at the bottom of the vertical center line. Place the edge of the first tile right on the line and make sure the base of the tile is parallel with the edge of the counter leaving just enough room for a bead of caulk.
• Firmly press the tile into the mastic. Then continue setting tiles, working out in both directions from the center line. Continue with the next rows up until you reach the row against the cabinets or one requiring decorative tiles.

TIP: If a skin forms on the mastic surface, stop setting and scrape the wall clean. Then apply a fresh coat of mastic.

4. Cut tiles to fit
• When you get to a cabinet or pattern edge that requires you to trim a tile with a single straight cut, place a full tile in the space and mark it.
• Using a score-and-snap tile cutter, score the tile once with the cutting wheel.
• Carefully snap the tile along the scored line.

 5.  Notch tiles with a wet saw
• Mark any tiles that need to be notched around a cabinet corner, switch box, or electrical receptacle.
• Lay the tile on the sliding table of a motorized wet saw (easier for shaped cuts) and push it forward into the blade to cut one side. Pull back the table, rotate the tile, and make the second cut.
• Use tile nippers to remove any material in the notch.
• Finish tiling the backsplash. On inside corners, butt the edges of the tiles against the tiles on the adjoining wall, leaving room for caulk. Install bull nose tile at open ends of the backsplash and at the top if there are no upper cabinets for the tiles to butt against.

 6.  Fill the tile joints with grout
• Allow mastic to dry overnight.
• The next day, mix a batch of unsanded tile grout. Sanded if grout lines are wider than 1⁄8 inch, following the directions on the carton.
• Scoop some grout out of the bucket with a rubber grout float and smear it across the surface of the tile diagonally to the grout lines.

• Pack the grout deep into the joints, but don’t get any into the seam between the tiles and the countertop or existing 4-inch backsplash.

 7.  Clean and caulk
• After grouting the entire backsplash, clean the surface with a soft sponge and clear water, rinsing the sponge often. Wipe diagonally to the grout lines so as not to pull any grout from the joints.
• Wait 30 to 45 minutes for the grout to set and for a hazy film to appear on the tiles, then buff off the haze with a clean, dry cloth until the tiles shine.
• Squeeze a thin bead of tub-and-tile caulk, the same color as the grout, into the joint at the very bottom of the backsplash, in the corners, and between the tiles and the cabinets. Smooth with a wet finger.

Learn how to install a backsplash the easy way through a href=”http http://www.buildingcompanynumber7.com/Kitchen-Remodeling/backsplashes.html/”>Building Company Number 7 </a>. Join Building Company Number 7 and access their entire<a href=”http://www.buildingcompanynumber7.com/”>website</a> for more ideas.

Richlite began using resin treated, pressure-baked paper fiber in the 1940s to supply Boeing with materials.  Later in the 1950s, before manufacturing counter tops, Richlite also began producing their unique material for the marine industry, building boats.  Over the decades several industries have realized the virtues of Richlite paper fiber based surfaces.  Today Richlite also produces the material that builds professional skate board ramps, commercial food service work surfaces, and counter top surfaces for a wide variety of residential applications.  This revolutionary material has proved itself time and time again for over half a century.  Today, homeowners everywhere can take advantage of the strength, style, and quality of Richlite counter top products.

Richlite counter tops are great for kitchens because they are extremely durable, not to mention heat and stain resistant.  Richlite counter tops are excellent for bathrooms and workspaces because they have a sanitary quality and require very low maintenance.  They bring a soft, comfortable tone to any room, in a way that a stone or laminate surface can not.

Richlite counter top surfaces can be catered to a broad range of design tastes.  Richlite counter tops are made primarily of post consumer paper fibers that are treated with a phenolic resin.  The fibers are formed into layers that are cross linked to the layers above and below them.  Then the resin “paper cake” is cured and baked into a solid, permanent single piece of rock hard Richlite.  The process of treating and baking long, cross linked paper fibers creates counter top sheets that are as elegant and attractive as wood, but hard as stone.  Because of Richlite’s unique manufacture process, these counter top sheets can be customized for extended cantilevers and long spans, eliminating seams in your counter top.

Richlite counter top products are now available in middle Tennessee, through professional contractors like Nashville’s <a target=”_new” href=”http://www.buildingcompanynumber7.com/Kitchen-Remodeling/“>Building Company Number 7</a>.  Call you local contractor and ask about the details and benefits of Richlite counter top products.

Flip through some catalogs and home improvement websites to choose a paint color that’s right for the room. Visit a hardware or paint store for some color samples and paint chips. Take the samples back home and compare them to your old color and your furniture. Choosing colors is a fun way to begin a painting project.

Once you’ve chosen a color, that means you are ready to begin shopping for your project. The painting trade is a highly developed industry, so you will discover that there is more painting equipment out there than a typical DIY buff ever needs to know about. To simplify things, use this basic shopping list to help you make your own.

Painting project shopping list
*Brushes and rollers
*Roller covers
*Paint trays and tray liners
*Drop cloths
*Clean up rags
*Painters tape
*Sandpaper
*Paint pail for brush work
*Paint removers
*Razors
*Paint can openers
*Ladders
*Furniture moving pads
*and of course paint

How much paint will you need?
Measure the square footage of the surfaces you will be painting. That means grab a tape measure and add the width plus the height of all the walls that will get a coat of paint. When buying the paint, read the labels or ask a professional how much square footage a particular gallon of a particular type of paint will cover.

What type of paint will you need?
The type of paint depends on the room. If you’re working on an interior paint job, the paint will need to give good coverage coupled with stain resistance. The paint should also be able to withstand occasional scrubbing so you can keep it clean for a long time. The two basic families of paint are latex paint and oil based paint. Most modern day oil based paints are actually made with synthetic resins called alkyds, that are less toxic than traditional oil base. Latex paints have excellent gloss retention and give the longest lasting finish. Latex paints are also quick to dry and very durable. Oil or Alkyd based paints are known for good adhesion and stain resistance. Oil or Alkyd based paints are great for trim in high traffic areas like kitchens and bathrooms.

Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss?
Both latex and oil paints come in a variety of finishes. Flat finish paint softens a room, smoothing the look of walls. Flat finish is not hard to clean with a damp sponge and is great for adult rooms like dining rooms, living rooms, and bedrooms. Satin finish has the benefits of a flat finish but because it has a slight gloss, it is even easier to clean. Satin finish is good for high traffic spots, like children’s bedrooms, family rooms, and hallways. Semi-gloss paint is best for areas that will be cleaned often, like kitchens and bathrooms. Gloss paint has a rich finish and is very durable. It is an ideal finish for trim and doors.

Be prepared!
Painting preparation is probably the most important part of a painting project. Remove all wall art, area rugs and furniture from the room to be painted. Then clean the room. You don’t want dust bunnies interfering with your fresh beautiful new paint. You must lay out drop cloths to cover the entire floor. You must scrape chipped and loose paint. You must clean the walls to be painted with a mildly abrasive cleaner like TSP to remove the dirt and prepare the surface to stick to a new coat of paint. Using painter’s tape, tape all edges and glass that you want to protect. If you are using a different color or gloss for the trim than you are for the walls, make sure to tape off all the trim before you begin. Make sure the room is ventilated. Open windows and doors. Have all of your tools, including painting clothes in the room to be painted. Once you finish preparation and begin acutally painting the walls, you want to avoid having to leave the room for something you forgot about.

This brief DIY guide to painting can not cover all of the details of the job. There are many types of brushes and rollers that were not discussed. Painting techniques include what order to paint in, from ceiling to floor, and how to use brushes and rollers to avoid spatter and runny application. This guide should serve as a starting point. As your painting project develops, seek out the help of painting and home improvement professionals for best results. Good luck!

Matthew Millsap is a home improvement expert. He believes in consumer education. If you need more information on general home improvement or painting in particular, please visit Building Company No. 7

Often the porch is not quite big enough to do a sitting area justice. A deck is the answer for a home where the porch is too small. Incorporating the outdoors into the livable space of your home is a wise and satisfying home improvement that benefits everyone, from your family to future buyers. Not only will a deck make your home dramatically more valuable, it will bring a smile to your face every time you step onto it and see the dappled sunlight playing across the floor of your outdoor living space.

Building a deck is a more involved and exciting project than screening a porch. You get to choose what sort of shade structures and traffic flow you would like on your deck. On the hottest of days you can still enjoy a refreshing light breeze. You can even create a custom cookout nook. Kick back on your deck during a long, bright summer day reading a book by natural light.

Beyond the beauty a deck or screened porch adds to your home, consider the value. A recent survey by Remodeling Magazine found, in 2007, that a wooden deck is the most cost effective home improvement you can perform on a mid range home. Installing a moderately sized, pressure treated deck can raise the value of a home so much that the deck may be over 80% paid for by the time it is completed. Screened porch or full size deck, an enclosed outdoor living space immediately adds several thousand dollars to the value of a home. That home could be yours.

Many people love the idea of a deck but feel that screens compromise the open-air feeling of a deck or porch. Though this can be true, there are many innovations in screening that will remedy the problem. Let’s say your deck is surrounded by a garden, for example. You want to enjoy, without barriers, the beauty of the plant life on your property, but during the hot times of the day, the bugs start buzzing around and invade the deck. There are several types of removable screens, even convenient Velcro-mounted screens that can be quickly put up or taken down according to daily needs. Using methods like removable screening you can convert your screened deck into an open-air pavilion and back again all in the same day.

A deck sounds great! Where do I start?

The best time to start is before spring and summer actually arrive, so your deck will be ready when you are. Of course, any well-executed home improvement project begins with research. Before buying any materials or calling in any professionals for an estimate, you must call your local city government. Check with zoning and building officials in your city to make sure you can get approval to build the deck you envision. Most zoning codes will allow you to install a patio near your property lines, but not an open air structure with a roof.

After checking in with the city, find a professional remodeling contractor. If you’ve never built a deck or screened porch before, you may find it challenging to draw up plans, and prepare a shopping list for materials. Call around town and speak with several contractors. Find someone you can communicate with, who is willing to answer your questions and help guide your design. An experienced builder will be versed in the conventions of decks and screens. This way you will get the best materials, maintenance, and product for your time and money. Even if you still would like to build the deck yourself, get a couple of free estimates to give yourself a ball park sense of the scope of your project. Good luck!