Deck Sealants are Worth the Trouble
August 23, 2010 by admin · Leave a Comment
If you are wondering why you can’t use just any finish on your deck, think about the abuse decking must handle, including pounding rain, snow, and ice, abrasion from traffic and furniture, and often many hours of direct sun, day after day. To make matters worse, the joints between the many parts of a deck retain moisture long after the rain stops, making the wood vulnerable to rot, mildew, and wood-munching insects. To combat this barrage, deck-finish manufacturers offer a variety of formulations that include sealers, preservatives, UV-light inhibitors, pigments, and resins. Some are oil based and penetrating. Some are acrylic and film forming. Others are a mix. Here is a list of the most popular finishing options for a new deck:
Clear sealers, or water-repellent preservatives, are the most popular choice for new decks. They help protect wood from moisture, thereby saving it from repeated cycles of soaking up water and then drying out. Unprotected, wood will crack, warp, cup and splinter. Sealers must be reapplied regularly to remain effective then; the wood will weather to gray. Water- repellent preservatives contain a fungicide to fight mildew.
Toners, or transparent stains, offer more than clear sealers. They deepen and enhance the wood, and the grain remains visible. You can use finishes on pressure-treated wood to approximate the look of more expensive woods. The best products in this category penetrate the wood surface, protect it from UV light and mildew, and leave a substantial top layer to resist moisture. They are relatively expensive finishes but will retain the original color of most woods strictly according to the manufacturer’s directions. Note: Exotic hardwoods like Ipe or mahogany are dense with natural oils and don’t absorb penetrating stains as well as softer woods. Allow them to weather to a teak-like gray or treat them with a hardwood-specific finish according to the manufacturer’s recommendations to maintain the original wood color.
Semitransparent stains generally have more pigment than transparent stains and do a better job of hiding imperfections and unattractive grain patterns. Alkyd- and oil-based versions excel because they penetrate the wood better than acrylic formulations. All are available in a wide variety of wood tones and colors.
Solid stains are more heavily pigmented than semitransparent stains. (Think thinned paint.) They offer superior protection against UV rays and hide the color and grain of the wood. They, too, come in a wide variety of colors. Oil-based products usually last longer, but water-based formulas are easier to clean. Expect wear patterns to show in heavily-trafficked areas.
Deck and porch paints, unlike many stains, are film-forming products. This makes for superior UV and moisture protection, and is great for camouflaging lesser grades of lumber—but paint may blister and peel, and will eventually show wear in high-traffic areas. Use paint if you want a bright gloss or semi gloss finish to match or complement paint on your house exterior. Acrylic- and alkyd-based paints are available and should be applied over an oil-based primer. Mix the paint with clean sand to improve slip resistance if desired. Keep painted decks swept free of dirt (it wears finishes away faster), or place outdoor carpets along traffic paths to prevent wear. Sand and recoat as necessary.
Preservatives prevent fungal growth, rot, and decay— and some also protect against wood-boring insects. They are recommended for treating untreated wood as well as the site-cut ends of pressure-treated lumber. Preservatives alone are not finishes. They may, however, be sold in combination with sealers to provide moisture protection as well, making them a one-step finish. Some preservatives can be used prior to applying paint for added protection against rot and decay.
Apply one thin coat of finish to penetrate and dry completely. Thick layers of finish don’t penetrate nor dry completely. The wood should be dry before applying finish. Sprinkle a little water on the deck. If it soaks in immediately, the wood is dry enough for finish application. New pressure-treated lumber must dry out completely before finish is applied. Check with the lumber supplier for the proper amount of drying time.
Make sure whatever finish you apply is rated for outdoor use and for a deck surface. Follow manufacturer’s application instructions for best results. And don’t spray or paint yourself into a corner.
Use a deck brightener to clean a deck before applying new finish (page 184). A brightener removes dirt, mildew, and the top layer of sun-faded wood fibers to restore the natural color of cedar and redwood.
Reapply finish to decks approximately once a year. Harsh climates and heavy deck usage may require reapplication twice a year.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Adding a Deck onto an Older Home
July 21, 2010 by admin · 2 Comments
Designing a deck for an older home can be a real challenge. While decks often look natural on homes built after World War II, such as ranches and split-levels, they are often an awkward fit for Victorian, Tudor, and Spanish-style homes. Even early Colonials, Colonial revivals of the 1920s and 30s, and cape cods can be overpowered visually by a deck if it’s not carefully designed. In such cases, architects often keep decks unobtrusive and low to the ground, often eliminating the need for railings. Another approach is to choose a porch-like design for your deck.
New tongue-and-groove synthetic decking looks like the narrow wood planks often used for porch floors, but it can withstand the elements with little maintenance. It’s particularly important with period homes to keep the deck in the scale of the house. Some designers suggest that the deck shouldn’t be bigger than the biggest room in the house.
Finally, work hard to integrate architectural elements from the house into the deck. Borrow from the profiles of existing columns when choosing balusters; pick up fluting details from columns, and use them on deck posts; mimic the width of fascias and pilasters. Look to your home’s water table (boards installed below siding on some older homes) for ideas on how to trim out the perimeter of your deck.
Custom Deck Guardrails for Older Homes
If your home is architecturally distinctive, consider installing a custom guardrail that echoes an existing architectural element, such as flared siding or existing work, and if your house’s architecture is not unusual, you may want to consider a custom guardrail. For example, ranches really have a horizontal look that merges well with garages and landscaping. To retain this quality, you may choose a solid guardrail or one with an open grid rather n using the traditional vertical balusters. Wrought iron steel balustrades with serpentine, curved, or concentric designs can be just the touch to dress up a raised ranch. Keep in mind that custom work will add to the job’s cost. Working through a local fabricator or mill to cut or bend repetitive components may be cheaper (and better) than cutting materials on site.
Railing Kits and Systems
Nowadays, handrail and guardrail systems are a great way to add panache to what would otherwise be an ordinary deck. Manufacturers—particularly those of synthetic decking materials—have responded to consumers’ growing desire for distinctive railings by creating easy-to-install railing kits. Some systems are as simple as a stack of bowed-steel balusters and a spacing tool to ease installation. Others offer preassembled balustrade panels that you cut to length and snap between specially extruded rails. Some builders mix and match, using preassembled balustrade sections set into conventionally framed wood posts and rails. For a lighter, contemporary look—and one that’s less likely to block your view—consider guardrails made with stainless-steel cable or rods, tempered glass, or aluminum. Make sure they meet building codes in your area before you make your purchase.
Skirts and Skirting
Skirt or fascia boards are typically 1-inch-wide trim pieces that may be used to hide rough framing, such as header joists. You can paint them to match your house trim or finish them to match the decking or railings. Run skirt boards under overhanging deck boards, or cover decking edges and ends for a flush look. They should extend an inch or two lower than the framing they cover. As wood-to-wood contact promotes rot, apply preservative and use spacers to create an air space between skirt boards and joists. An air space is not necessary when using synthetic trim boards over pressure-treated wood.
To hide the entire space between deck and ground, use skirting panels. Made with wood or composite boards, or with lattice panels, they help keep balls, pets, and other animals from getting under the deck. Lattice is available in both pressure-treated wood and vinyl. A solid skirt gives the deck a more massive, formal look, as if the deck were built on a foundation. Open lattice, either in a diamond or windowpane pattern, has a lighter feeling and allows ventilation (important in damp climates). Choosing to use no skirting panels will make the deck look as if it were floating—especially if you have cantilevered the joists and decking around the perimeter. If you do opt for skirting, be sure to include one or more access doors to the space you’re enclosing.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
The Five Basics of Building a Storage Shed
July 7, 2010 by admin · 3 Comments
Every homeowner eventually runs out of storage space. As time rolls
on, family growth, DIY projects, and various hobbies take up more and more room in a home. These things include old baby furniture, gardening equipment, and even workshop tools.
torage sheds are an excellent way to add significant storage or work space to a household without altering the layout of the home or performing an expensive interior remodel. Many homeowners think they do not need a storage shed because they have a garage to keep all of their extras. But it is a common eventuality that garages get so full of boxes, old toys, tools, ladders and overstocked shelves that there is no more room to park the car. Storage sheds can be used to neatly organize and protect all of the objects that usually clutter up a garage, allowing the garage to be used as the car park for which it was originally designed.
This homeowner’s guide outlines the five basics of building a storage shed. While not an exhaustive DIY guide, it will equip you with the basic information necessary to make an educated decision about the size, type, purpose and price of your storage shed.
1. Zoning laws and building codes
Don’t build or buy anything for your shed until you check with your
local government about any rules and restrictions concerning outdoor structures. You will most likely learn that the shed must be a particular distance from your property lines. Additionally, there may be rules governing the building and siding materials you are permitted to use. Some subdivisions have regulations that prohibit outdoor structures. Frequently, the most convenient spot for a shed is an area you are not allowed to build on. You may have to obtain a permit or a zoning variance before you can begin building the shed. Be sure to visit your local zoning office with a detailed plan of what you intend to build. Estimate the placement and proportions of your shed as best you can.
2. Size
It is easy to estimate the size of your shed, though it takes a little work. Clear a spot in your driveway or yard to use as a sample footprint for your storage shed. Then arrange the larger items you plan to store, making sure to leave ample elbow room for easily moving things in and out of the shed. It is frustrating to go through the trouble of building a shed only to find that is too cramped to get around in. Your sample footprint should include possessions like camping equipment, bicycles, the lawn mower, wheelbarrow, and anything else that you figure will be stored on the floor of the shed. Once filled, measure the dimensions of the sample footprint. This will give you an accurate estimate of the length and width of your storage shed. Also bear in mind how wide your door will be. The door to the shed must be at least wide enough to accommodate the largest item in your sample footprint.
3. Purpose
Like the old adage says, form follows function. The dimensions and interior layout of your shed depend on what it will be used for. If you plan to store potentially dangerous chemicals like painting supplies or fertilizer, make sure to include high shelves in your design, to keep those chemicals away from children and pets. If the shed will be the new home for a lot of tools, a peg board wall may be an ideal feature to keep the tools organized and easily accessible.
4. Materials
Natural wood is the most popular building material for outdoor sheds. But not all woods can withstand the moisture and insects that are attracted to small outdoor structures. Woods with natural resins, like cedar, are more rot and weather resistant. A wise choice is ACQ treated lumber. ACQ stands for Alkaline Copper Quaternary treated lumber. This treatment makes wood highly rot resistant and wood-eating insects simply avoid ACQ treated lumber. But wood is not the only solution. Many manufacturers now make very sturdy and serviceable heavy duty plastic sheds that are easy to assemble and do not require any carpentry work.
5. Price
Of course the price of a shed depends on size, purpose, materials, and any applicable permit fees. In the end, a shed can cost anywhere from 400 dollars to 4000 dollars. As you progress through the previous 4 steps in the planning phase, the approximate cost of your new storage shed will become more clear.
With a little extra effort, a storage shed can even be a workshop or hobby headquarters. Converting a garage into a storage area workshop is at best a short term improvised solution. Storage sheds are superior to garages for creating a dedicated equipment shelter or hobby workspace. If you are finding that your axillary household needs have outgrown the extra space in your home, the time is ripe for a storage shed.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Discussing Different Types of Insulation
May 11, 2010 by admin · Leave a Comment
No home is complete without the right insulation. Though insulation is not a very visible part of the home, it is impossible to build a modern home without it. The right insulation in your home can go a long way toward increasing your family’s comfort, saving you significant energy costs, and preserving our environment.
Different types of insulation work toward some of these goals better than others. Some insulation that is better for the environment is not as effective at temperature control. Your insulation needs will vary depending on the climate and temperature range where you live.
What kind of home insulation types are available out there? Which one is best for your needs? Which ones are the most cost effective? This guide to the different types of insulation will answer those questions and more. It will start by outlining the most common materials used to insulate a home. It will also discuss the pros and cons of these insulation types, based on climate and expense. This guide covers three traditional materials for home insulation and introduces the wide variety of green materials available to reduce the carbon footprint of traditional home insulation materials.
Asbestos
Asbestos is highly recognized but no longer used. Asbestos is a good, fireproof thermal insulator, but it causes cancers. Asbestos was banned in 1989 for its carcinogenic qualities. Most uses of asbestos are prohibited, unless performed under strict regulations.
Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI)
UFFI is another culprit in the green movement. In the 1970s, UFFI caused high formaldehyde emissions levels in over ten thousand homes. UFFI is generally considered one of the unhealthier insulations, especially if improperly applied.
Fiber glass
Fiber glass is a cheap and effective insulating and weatherproofing material. Fiber glass is made from glass heated to high tempretures and treated with boron and a phenol formaldehyde binder for fireproofing and texture. The glass is then spun into a wool-like blanket material, typically pink or yellow in color.
Fiber glass insulation is readily available and is easy to cut and install. It is important to remember, when working with fiber glass, to wear protective gear, including gloves and clothes that cover all of your skin. Also, fiber glass must not be moistened or compressed. To ensure proper insulation, all ends should be butted together flush and firm. Fiber glass has its share of problems, too. If it gets wet it can transform into a breeding ground for microorganisms. Fiber glass can cause severe skin allergies. Also the phenol formaldehyde binder may release offensive ammonia-like or dead-fish odors.
The federal government has made strides ensuring fiber glass be more ecologically responsible. The US Environmental Protection Agency requires all large fiber glass manufacturers to use at least 20% recycled glass in the production process. This brings up another important sustainability fact about fiber glass. The boron used to make debris glass flame retardant and more flexible is a relatively rare element. Almost all boron comes from only two large deposits in the whole world, so it should not be over used.
Mineral Wool, Including Rock Wool
Mineral wool and rock wool are the once common predecessors to fiber glass. Rather than heating, treating and spinning glass into insulating fiberous mats, manufacturers use iron ore slag or natural volcanic rock. Because of the source material for mineral wools, they automatically contain an average of 75% recycled industrial content. Mineral wools are excellent insulators of heat and are very fire resistant.
Cellulose
Cellulose is a strong contender in the green home improvement world. Recycled cellulose is getting a lot of attention as an effective insulating material. Cellulose insulation for homes is made up of 4/5 post-consumer newspaper. The remaining 20% of cellulose insulation is made of fire retardant chemicals and sometimes acrylic binders. In the long term, the biggest disadvantage of cellulose insulation is its susceptibility to moisture. If cellulose insulation gets wet, the water can leech out the fire retardant borates, weakening the insulation’s fireproofing ability.
Textile
Textile insulation is made from mill scraps of cotton and polyester. This fiber mixture is then fluffed up with shredded plastic for volume and treated again with borates to prevent pest infestations and retard fire. Cotton and textile insulation is more expensive than traditional fiberglass, but better for human health and the environment.
Straw
Some green builders are drawing from history and using bales of straw for insulating exterior walls. Straw is actually quite effective, but it requires special precautions to prevent moisture and insect infestations.
Foam insulations
There are many types of foam insulation compounds, including polyisocyanurate, polyurethane, and polystrene. Foam insulations can cause irritation of the nose, eyes, and respiratory system. Some foams used to be blown with chlorofluorocarbons (CFC), but have gradually been replaced by hydrochloro-fluorocarbons (HCFC). HCFC are not quite as damaging to the Earth’s ozone layer. Some foam insulation is not blown, and therefore does not need CFCs and HCFCs for application. An example of this kind of foam is expanded polystrene, or EPS. EPS is foam insulation in board stock form laid into wall cavities, rather than sprayed into them.
It’s clear that most insulation comes with some risk to the environment. As time and technology move on, more ecologically sound and effective insulation choices are sure to become available. Since building without insulation is impossible, a homeowner’s best bet is to get educated and demand insulation solutions and materials that will suit the consumer and help the environment.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Comparing Common Countertop Materials
Countertops are one of the most prevalent features of kitchen space. Because they are such a central part of kitchens, the size, color and material of countertops can really spruce it up.
Kitchen remodeling is a large and important job for any homeowner. Kitchens attract the most traffic of any room in a home. With that in mind, it is a good idea to choose high quality components when outfitting your kitchen.
What is the best material to use for kitchen countertops? Rather than try to cover them all, this guide to kitchen countertops deals specifically with two materials. We will weigh the pros and cons of two different materials that have good reputations for countertop quality. Those materials are granite and richlite. Granite is a classic stone component. While Richlite, like paperstone and other such products, is a 20th century synthetic material made from pressed and baked paper fiber.
Granite: Pros and Cons
Granite is king of the hill in terms of kitchen countertops. When a homeowner doesn’t have to make any other considerations – like price – granite is the material of choice. Granite sets the bar for kitchen elegance, functionality, and beauty. The beauty of this age old stone enhances the beauty of even very modest kitchens. Granite is a countertop that will not depreciate in value. In fact, granite countertops are considered home improvements that increase the overall value of a home. Granite is sanitary, being resistant to bacterial contaminants. Granite is also earth-formed stone, created from heat and pressure, so it can handle hot pots and pans. Furthermore, granite is easy to clean with mild detergent and warm water. Granite comes in thousands of colors and is nearly as hard as diamond. Granite is so hard, that it will dull knives if you cut directly onto the stone.
On the other hand, granite is expensive. It is true, as granite becomes more widespread it comes down in price. Granite is a porous stone, so it requires some maintenance. Some types of granite absorb stains if they are not sealed periodically. For optimal stain resistance granite must be cleaned and sealed one or two times per year. If you seal granite before cleaning off a stain, that stain will become permanent. The good news is that newer sealants are very easy to apply, reducing the necessary maintenance time for granite. Because of granite’s hardness, it can crack if it is installed incorrectly or stressed. Because of its weight, granite requires additional labor and structural support to install. Often installation costs significantly more than the material itself. Granite is quite permanant, so if you get tired of the color, tough luck. Removing a granite countertop entails replacing the entire cabinetry. Granite is also naturally variable, with differences of appearance in each slab. If you want a totally uniform look thoughout the kitchen, granite may not supply that uniformity.
Richlite: Pros and Cons
Richlite is a representative brand of composite and recycled materials. Other name brands for paper composites are Paperstone, Shektastone, and EcoTop. Some manufacturers use glass and resin composites, like IceStone and EnviroGlas. The most common composites are made of wood pulp combined with resin, pressed into a slab, and baked into a rock hard solid. Richlite only uses woodpulp from managed forests, so it is eco friendly. Richlite does not need sealing, but rubbing it with an oiled sponge every so often eliminates signs of wear. Richlite ages very well. In that regard it has been compared to leather. It looks great when it’s new, it shows wear while it’s young, then it develops a smoothness and beauty as it ages.
Though Richlite ages very well, it is not scratch resistant. Composites like Richlite will will show wear, but develop a patina over time, achieving a warmth and smoothness that stone can not offer. This composite is heat resistant, but only up to 350 degrees, so taking a pot out of the oven and putting it on the composite countertop may leave a scorch mark. Some colors of Richlite may not be UV stable, so if your countertop area gets a lot of sun, check to see if the color you like will fade in the sunlight.
Of course there are far more than two options available for kitchen counters. The other materials include engineered quartz, kitchen glass, soapstone, laminate, ceramic tile, marble, slate, acrylic and copper. Each of these materials has its pros and cons. When choosing a countertop material, there are many factors to take into account, including price, appearance, and durability. By learning to assess the advantages and disadvantages of the various countertop materials, you can make an informed decision and choose the material that best suits your needs.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Practical Bathroom Remodeling Guide
January 12, 2010 by admin · 3 Comments
Bathroom remodeling is a surefire and relatively easy way to dramatically increase the value of your home. With bathroom remodeling, you get to invent a whole new space according to your personal needs and tastes, rather than the conveniences of the builder. You can improve the shower, add cabinet space, add quiet ventilation, or heated floor tiles to make stepping out of the shower on a cold morning a lot more comfortable.
One of the beauties of remodeling your bathroom is the variety of choices you have for a small room. There are plenty of options for the toilet, sink, cabinetry, tub, mirror, ventilation, lighting, walls, and flooring. Many people that have remodeled their bathrooms have been blown away by the amount of refreshing change that can be fit into a room as common as the bathroom. They thank themselves every day that they installed a new wide washbasin with comfortable, elegant new faucets.
The bathroom is one of the most utilized rooms in a home. This means that bathrooms get some of the most wear and use of any room in your home. The amount of traffic that bathrooms get in a home shows how important a space it is. Having an attractive and comfortable bathroom makes every day better.
That fact is, that the majority of bathrooms are notoriously under designed in the name of a developer’s cost efficiency. This makes your bathroom a likely candidate for a home improvement project. Get a new bathtub, or simply resurface your trusty old tub. While you’re at it, remember that a remodel is the perfect time to install the hot tub or whirlpool you’ve been daydreaming about.
A bathroom improvement project can be classified into two types: surface alterations and tear out/remodels. Many surface alterations you may be able to do yourself, like installing a new mirror or a new toilet. But if you want to install a new tile shower or a heated vanity mirror that never fogs over, you may need the help of a professional. The deeper your renovations the more you are going to need precise and professional electrical and plumbing work.
When planning a bathroom remodel, consider the underlying structure of the bathroom. Bathrooms collect moisture. This means that you are most likely going to need to replace some drywall when you renovate your bathroom. Bathroom drywall is different from regular drywall. You’ll need to use a moisture resistant drywall, often called “green board.” In really wet areas like showers, you may need moisture proof backer board.
If you have already begun your bathroom remodel, or have at least already called around for estimates, the same wealth of choices that are such a thrill at first can become a point of contention. With so many options, from new electrical work to cultured marble tops, where can you find answers? Call around to some of your local bathroom renovators. Find a professional contractor that is patient and informative. Make a list of bathroom remodeling services you can ask about.
A sample list of bathroom remodeling services:
* Major plumbing and electrical
* Painting and refinishing
* Repair and restoration
* Cabinet installation
* Toilets
* Sinks
* Tub installation and resurfacing
* Faucets
* Saunas
* Showers and shower doors
* Whirlpools and hot tubs
* Countertops
* Tiles
* Copper re-piping
One of the advantages of remodeling your bathroom is the satisfaction you get every day from the exquisite action of the new faucets, the softness of the new lighting, the broad spray of the new shower, the pristine gleam of a stone counter top, or the cozy warmth of heated tile floors.
Before you remodel your bathroom, acquaint yourself with the wide variety of options and services available. Visualize the improvements you would like to see in your current bathroom and compare them against a list similar to the one above. Once you have a sense of your needs, you can research each service. Maybe you don’t want to get a new tub, but feel a skylight would be a better addition to your bathroom. Then find a reliable, trustworthy contractor to answer your questions and take a look at your site. Dedicating a little time and resources to your bathroom will increase the value of your home and make it a more functional and satisfying place to live.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Bathroom Remodeling – Aiming For Proper Accessibility
January 6, 2010 by admin · Leave a Comment
The bathroom can both be a relaxing and dangerous place for anyone at home, especially when we deal with the elders. Bathrooms can be dangerous for those older people who cannot already be up steady on their feet. Hence, it could help a lot that in your bathroom Remodeling plans, you remove anything that would put them in much danger. And instead, apply some other accessories that would make that portion of the house much safer.
In your bathroom Remodeling, you can choose to install walk in bathtubs. These prevent the idea of getting out of the tub and slipping accidentally on wet floor, no matter what your age may be. These walk in bathtubs come in a wide variety of models, shapes and sizes which of course serves as your regular bathtub. Some of them even come with powered bath seats and watertight doors to limit the dangers of tripping.
You can also decide to install transfer benches which help the user slide into the tub without any danger. In shopping for this, what’s important that your choice of a transfer bench can be able to support the weight of anyone. The average transfer bench can only handle about 250 pounds and below. If you are something that can handle more than that, then seek to know more about the bariatric models.
The grab bars can be seen as useful too not only for the older people. It can be installed in numerous locations all around the bathroom and not just in the shower or tub. You can be sure that it won’t ruin the aesthetics of your bathroom’s total look for in the market today, grab bars already come in various finishes and colors too.
If you have an elderly with you in your Nashville area home, then you must consider to include in your bathroom remodeling plans to widen up the bathroom door just a little bit more. Even if they are not yet using the wheelchair to get around in any place, you might want to expect that happening soon enough as well. So consider addressing all the possible concerns you might encounter so you can steer away from always giving your bathroom another luxurious Remodeling. In fact, you might want to decide having a sliding glass door for easier access to your bathroom.
You can choose to do the bathroom Remodeling on your own but it can help you a lot better if you would seek the help of a bathroom Remodeling contractor.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
Sealant types and Their Uses
December 29, 2009 by admin · 3 Comments
Sealants refer to a wide variety of materials that are used to close the gaps between substrates, or various building materials. Sealants are used to prevent air, gas, noise, smoke, liquid, or dust from penetrating small openings that cannot otherwise be closed. Sealants begin as a viscous liquid, when applied, then dry into a solid. Sealants of some sort are used in every level of civilization, from tarring the roof of a hut to weatherproofing a modern home with silicone caulk to specialty soundproofing.
In the past few decades, the sealant industry has globalized with the rest of the world market. In fact, 60% of total global merchant demand of sealants comes from three major players. Asia and India represent the highest growth market in recent years, due primarily to the rise of textile manufacture, electronics assembly, and woodworking. Enduring woodwork would be impossible without the right sealants.
Sealant production has also responded to environmental concerns, with technological breakthroughs that have made sealants more effective and environmentally friendly. Earlier generations of sealants commonly contained VOCs, or “volatile organic compounds.” Advances in technology have produced Low-VOC and No-VOC sealants. These new generation sealants are safer for the environment. What’s more, they are applicable to a wider range of materials and conditions.
There are literally dozens of types of sealants, based on their chemical makeup and their various uses. From dental sealants, to engine sealants, to household epoxy. They are even used in the nanotechnology industry. The most commonly recognized sealants are household sealants. For example, the caulk used to seal a bathtub, window sill, or kitchen sink.
Sealants have three basic functions
1. A sealant fills a gap between two or more substrates.
2. Sealants form a barrier through the physical properties of the sealant itself and by adhesion to the substrate.
3. It maintains sealing properties for the expected lifetime, service conditions and environments.
Sealants are commonly grouped with adhesives, though they are different substances with distinct uses. Adhesives are sometimes reformulated into sealants. An adhesive is used to join to components together, like the panels of a cardboard box. While a sealant, though often sticky, is used to close gaps and openings where unwanted air and particles can pass through. Adhesives are often stronger than sealants, but less flexible. Sometimes the functions of sealants and adhesives overlap. Sealants do need to stick to what they are sealing, but that is not as important as the seal itself.
Sealants, though usually weaker than adhesives, have unique properties. Sealants, as opposed to simple adhesives, are particularly effective in keeping moisture in or out of the components they seal. They provide soundproofing and thermal insulation. Some sealants are quite effective as fire barriers. Other sealants can have electrical insulating properties. They are also used for finish work, like smoothing or filleting.
Sealants are a godsend in the field of home weatherproofing, and renovating kitchens and bathrooms. The modern home would be impossible without the insulating properties of sealants. This winter, try tracking down some of the drafts in your home – cracks and gaps around windows, under sinks, tubs and plumbing, or around electrical fixtures. These are all places where household sealants, like silicone caulk and epoxy can make your home more comfortable and fuel-efficient.
Be sure to weatherize your home this season. When doing so, don’t underestimate the utility and effectiveness of sealants. Drafts can be eliminated and bills lowered all for the price of a few tubes of the right caulk. There are numerous sealants on the market, each specialized for a different use. Find out which ones are best for your needs. Contact a local contractor that will answer your questions.
Some of the information in this report was gathered from The Third Edition of the Global Adhesive and Sealant Study: 2003-2006. If you have questions about sealants and their uses, you may also contact the author of this article, Matt Millsap, a Tennessee based building and construction specialist.
|
|
|
|
![]() |


