Regrouting an Installation
Although cracked or crumbling grout joints are often the first sign of structural problems, they sometimes signal nothing more than the fact that the grout itself was improperly mixed, contained too much liquid ingredient, was mixed without an additive or was weakened by using too much water during cleanup. If you suspect that the grout itself is the problem, you should be able to regrout the joints with a bit of preparation. Just bear in mind that grout gets much of its strength from having a relatively thick cross section that is reinforced by the sides of the tiles. If you simply cover the existing grout with a thin layer of new grout, it is unlikely that the new application will last.
Removing the grout
Use a grout saw, hacksaw blade or utility knife to remove the old grout down to the setting bed (being careful not to cut through any membrane if one was used). If some of the grout is very difficult to remove, it is probably in good shape and can remain. Vacuum away the dust and debris, clean the surface of the tiles with a vinegar/water solution (see below) or a recommended cleaner and allow the area to dry completely before applying the new grout.
Where some of the old grout is to remain in place, you will of course want to match the new grout with the old. Making a perfect match may be difficult or impossible, even if you use grout saved from the original for the repair. Take a chunk of the grout you have removed and compare it to color samples available from local tile suppliers. If you cannot find a perfect match, you’ll either have to pick the closest shade and live with the difference or remove all the original grout and install the new color over the entire area.
One final, and very important, point when regrouting: Always use a latex or acrylic additive with the grout. The additive will both help waterproof the grout and increase its resistance to cracking.
Maintaining an Installation
For routine cleaning of a tile installation, try using a solution of one cup vinegar to a gallon of water. Although there are many good products on the market specifically designed to clean tile, this mildly acidic solution works well to cut through light oil and dirt, leaves no residue on the tile and is inexpensive.
If you find that the grout joints in an installation routinely get very dirty, give them a thorough cleaning with one of the special tile-cleaning products, let them dry for a full three to four days, and apply an impregnator to the entire surface of the installation. (Make sure you choose an appropriate tile sealer for food-service areas.) Impregnators are generally more expensive to apply and maintain than silicone sealers, but they provide greater resistance to dirt and staining. Depending on use, impregnators will have to be reapplied from time to time.
Cleaning grout haze
A grout haze or residue is left on the surface of the tiles after initial cleanup of the grout. If this
haze is not removed completely when the tiles are grouted, the hardened glaze may be difficult to remove with conventional cleaners.
If you have a problem with hard grout deposits or stubborn haze on the surface of the tiles, first contact the grout manufacturer and ask for a cleaning-product recommendation. Chances are, the manufacturer will have a solution in stock that will harm neither the tile, the surrounding materials nor the user.
If the haze still resists these mild cleaning methods, an acid cleaner may be the only solution. Because of the potential for personal injury, most people don’t like to use acid cleaners, but if you do decide to use them, there are certain precautions you can take to ensure your safety.
